VENICE, ITALY
Eternally beautiful, eternally charming, Venice is a place that knows no time or age. A place to visit at least once in a lifetime, because there is truly nothing like it; where boats replace cars, buildings rise from water, and time seems to stand still.
TO STAY
Although Venice is easy to walk around, much of it is separated by water; staying in the area in which you will spend most of your time is the best way to plan your visit. For first-timers, San Marco would be the most convenient.
A Venetian classic and one of the city's oldest buildings, this 15th-century palace is a longstanding gem. Once a residence to a noble doge family and later to a long list of illustrious visitors (like Hemingway and Grace of Monaco), The Gritti Palace remains a place where culture and history meet on the Grand Canal. A place of old luxury, classic beauty, and Venetian heritage. Its location lies ideally in the heart of Venice, just across Santa Maria and a short walk from Piazza San Marco. Staying at The Gritti is a lifetime experience and a truly memorable way to see Venice.
PLACES TO VISIT
PIAZZA & BASILICA SAN MARCO: The heart and hub of Venice, Piazza San Marco is an ideal place to begin. Studded with several historical highlights like the wonderful Basilica, Palazzo Ducale, the Campanile bell tower, and Torre dell'Orologio clock tower. Also on Piazza San Marco is the iconic Caffe Florian - one of Europe's oldest coffeehouses and a Venetian institution. The square is expectedly crowded but it is the starting point to explore Venice on a first visit.
PALAZZO DUCALE: Just around the corner from Basilica San Marco, Palazzo Ducale is a Gothic masterpiece. Formerly the Doge's residence and seat of government it is an elemental symbol of Venice, worth visiting for its magnificent architecture alone. Visit earlier in the morning to beat the crowds and from there, walk across to Ponte Dei Sospiri (famously known as the 'Bridge of Sighs').
PONTE DEI SOSPIRI (BRIDGE OF SIGHS) & RIALTO BRIDGE: Venice is full of picturesque bridges and canals, but these are perhaps two of its most famous ones. Ponte Dei Sospiri (known as the Bridge of Sighs) is a white-arched bridge just next to Palazzo Ducale; named after the prisoners' sighs transported from the palace to prison. Rialto Bridge is the oldest and longest one in Venice with a spanning view of the Grand Canal; with San Marco on one end and San Polo on the other, it's the crossing point between two of the best areas to explore.
MUSEO DI FORTUNY: A hidden gem just across the Grand Canal, this former Gothic palace now houses an exhibition of Mariano Fortuny's art & textiles. There's much of the Venetian designer's work to see and marvel at, from paintings and photography to engravings, lamps, and fashion designs. It feels like a world of its own inside and it's only a short walk from Piazza San Marco and the Rialto Bridge.
TEATRO LA FENICE: A beautiful 18th-century opera house, La Fenice is a place to attend concerts as much as it is to visit for its magnificent woodwork, ceiling art, and the enchanting golden lights across its balconies. Somewhere between Museo di Fortuny and Piazza San Marco, it's a short stop worth making to admire a piece of Venice's theatric heritage.
BURANO & MURANO: If you're staying in Venice long enough, the islands of Burano and Murano make for a wonderful day trip. Whereas Burano is famous for its colourful buildings, handmade lace, and bussola biscuits, Murano is more so for its glassmaking factories. They're about 30-40 minutes by boat from Venice as well as from each other, which means you could easily visit both if you plan on it.
FOOD & DINING
RISTORANTES
HARRY'S DOLCI: When it comes to dining in Venice, the Cipriani name needs no introduction. Sister to the iconic Harry's Bar, Harry's Dolci is the Cipriani restaurant in Venice (not to be confused with Belmond Hotel Cipriani). Far from the crowds of San Marco, on the quieter island of Giudecca, Harry's Dolci is an atmospheric al fresco restaurant on the canal; the open view of the water is stunning at sunset. The menu offers many of Cipriani's classic dishes, like their signature carpaccio, baked tagliolini and veal piccata. The food is as delicious as the atmosphere is captivating; by sunset, the entire terrace is filled with elegantly dressed guests sipping on Bellinis and dining late into the evening. A truly memorable dining experience in Venice and worth booking in advance.
CIP'S CLUB: Also from the Cipriani family, Cip's Club at the Belmond Hotel Cipriani is the most sophisticated of the group. On the other side of Giudecca on a floating deck, surrounded by water on all three sides, its location is unbeatably romantic. The menu changes often but it is usually of Venetian tradition with a refined reinterpretation. At Cip's perhaps it is more so about the crowd and atmosphere than it is about the food, but just a seat on that deck is certainly a treat. The hotel also offers guests a private boat to and from San Marco.
GRITTI TERRACE: With Club del Doge on one side and Bar Longhi on the other, the Gritti Terrace is a place for aperitifs, digestifs and everything in between. On a floating deck with a panoramic view of the Grand Canal, both the restaurant and bar enjoy marvellous views and atmosphere. Dine on refined Venetian fare at Club del Doge and end with one of Hemingway's signature cocktails at the opulent Bar Longhi.
CA D'ORO ALLA VEDOVA: Tucked away in a quiet alley, this family-run restaurant is known for having some of if not the best polpette in Venice. It's an unassuming, cosy little place for traditional Venetian fare, typical cicchetti as well as a dine-in menu. The polpettes alone are absolutely worth going for. If you're doing a cicchetti tour of Venice, Ca D'Oro Alla Vedova is an essential stop.
RISTORANTE DA RAFFAELE: Just around the corner from The Gritti and a short walk to Piazza San Marco, Da Raffaele is a delightful place for lunch or dinner in the area. On a small canal with a view of gondolas riding by, the al fresco setting is certainly part of its attraction and worth booking in advance (there are more tables inside, but the setting makes it special). The menu is traditionally Venetian with a variety of pastas, meat and fish options; the Maltagliati Scampi e Pesto and Paccheri pastas are two of the chef specials worth trying.
TRATTORIA ALLA MADONNA: One of the older restaurants in Venice, Trattoria alla Madonna is a traditional seafood eatery in Rialto (a short walk from the bridge). White-cloth tables, bare walls, vested waiters. The food is similarly simple, straightforward, and decent. If you're looking to try Venetian bigoli (pasta in anchovy sauce), it's one of the best places for it.
CAFFE & CICCHETTI
BAR ALLA TOLETTA: An old-fashioned local favourite in Dorsoduro, Bar Alla Toletta is one of the best places for tramezzini - a lunch staple in Venice. Generous fillings of cold cuts, veggies, and cheeses sandwiched between soft toast bread; and the selection there is excellent. Grab a few to go and enjoy them by the canal.
CANTINE DEL VINO GIÀ SCHIAVI: Tucked away by a canal in Dorsoduro, this long-established bacaro serves a large selection of wine and cicchetti. At lunch and again in the evening, people crowd by the bar and spill out onto the street with glasses of wine and plates piled with bites to nibble on. It's a fun and laidback spot to enjoy cicchetti culture in Venice.
CANTINA DO MORI: Perhaps the oldest bacaro in Venice, dating back to the 1400s, Cantina do Mori is a legendary institution said to have been frequented by Casanova. Bronze pots hanging from the ceiling, a bar lined with old barrels and bottles, the place has a rustic charm befitting its history. A short walk from Rialto Bridge, it's an excellent spot to sample local some wine and cicchetti - a traditional bacaro experience.
BACARO DE BISCHERI: On the corner of a hidden alley near Rialto Bridge, this unassuming bacaro makes excellent panini to go. Freshly made focaccia and a variety of fillings to choose from - everything from cold cuts, cheese, and veggies to homemade spreads like parmesan cream and basil pesto. Grab a panino and enjoy it down by the canal with a view of the bridge.
CAFFE FLORIAN: One of the oldest coffeehouses in Italy, Caffe Florian is an iconic institution of Venice on Piazza San Marco. With neo-baroque interiors, white-vested waiters and an old-world charm that makes it so special. Of course there are more local spots to explore but on a first visit to Venice, Caffe Florian is one for the list.
GELATOTECA SUSO: A more modern and artisanal gelateria of quality worth queueing for. Rich and creamy with well-pronounced flavours; ranging from traditional ones like stracciatella and pistacchio to creations like cappuccino and halva. Both shops are within walking distance to Rialto Bridge.
VENETIAN PASTICCERIAS: Venice is studded with traditional pasticcerias that serve typically Venetian pastries like fregolatta, bussolai and mandorlato. Some of the most renowned names to look for include: Rizzardini, Ballarin, Tonolo, Marchini, and Rosa Salva. If you're visiting during Carnevale di Venezia, look out for 'frittelle' - a seasonal speciality exclusive to the carnival.
TRAVELING TIPS
1. The best time to visit Venice is during its drier months. The city quickly floods in the rain, which makes it difficult to move around or enjoy.
2. On a first visit, staying in the San Marco district is a convenient way to explore the city. It's really the hub of Venice and an ideal starting point. Piazza San Marco is within walking distance to most places and almost everything leads back to it.
3. At a leisurely pace, four days is enough to see most Venice as well as its neighbouring islands Murano & Burano.