TIVAT, MONTENEGRO
Montenegro is slowly but surely climbing its way up the list of top holiday destinations. As a location, it can be easily overlooked for its more popular counterparts: Croatia, Monte Carlo, Cannes, et cetera; but the moment you arrive, the country's beauty will erase all doubt. Montenegro has a lot to offer in terms of natural surroundings, vast bodies of water, outdoor activities, as well as tranquil relaxation. The country is also relatively small and easy to travel around by car and by boat. Tivat is one of Montenegro's more popular coastal towns in summer - there you'll find the old town for a true local's experience, as well as a newly built marina for a deluxe stay. As a holiday destination, Montenegro is not nearly as expensive as other European countries; a great choice for families, friends, and couples.
TO STAY
PORTO MONTENEGRO: Porto Montenegro is a full-serviced marina offering luxurious accommodations and a variety of facilities in the coastal town of Tivat. Considered a five-star haven nestled in modest surroundings, Porto is a destination of its own; built on the Adriatic coast, with a waterfront view of the Bay of Kotor and a long promenade lined with restaurants, designer-boutiques, as well as service stores (pharmacies, local grocery, rental offices, etc). Parisian designer Tino Zervudachi combines the elegance of Southern France with the beauty of Montenegrin nature, giving visitors the chance to recognise the true potential of this up-and-coming holiday destination. Perhaps one of its setbacks, however, is that Porto solely caters to a deluxe experience - although fully equipped with its own facilities and services, the marina lacks the history and culture you might see elsewhere in Montenegro. But as a base-point for your holiday, I highly recommend staying here.
HOTEL REGENT: This is the only hotel located in Porto; a five-star accommodation overlooking the Bay of Kotor and the yacht-studded marina. The hotel is grand and charming, with a sense of exclusivity that makes guests feel taken care of. Before exploring the rest of Porto, make sure to enjoy Regent's own facilities, including an infinity pool & spa, breakfast and dinner at The Dining Room along the promenade, a bakery/café with homemade pastries, drinks at The Library Bar, as well as seasonal events hosted by the hotel. Spend a little extra and book a sea-view room; not only will you awaken and sleep to a mesmerising view of the bay, but you will also be staying in an apartment-suite! The size of the room is pleasantly surprising; it comes with a king-size bed, two bathrooms, a living-room space, and a mini kitchenette. Definitely worth it. The staff at Regent is also polite and hospitable, and will come to recognise you shortly. If you need any help with bookings and rentals, the concierge team is always cooperative. Staying here at Regent is truly the foundation of a relaxing holiday.
FOOD & DINING
DE GUSTIBUS: Fish Carpaccio - Seafood Soup - Blank Ink Spaghetti - Salt Crusted Seabass - Chocolate Trio
The best fish restaurant in Porto and arguably in all of Tivat, De Gustibus will provide a night of fine Adriatic cuisine served in a rooftop-romantic atmosphere overlooking the bay (located at the Yacht Club). The menu is short and to the point, offering a variety of fish carpaccio, two or three pasta/risotto dishes, and a larger selection of fish cooked in different ways; as with most restaurants, you have the option to select the fish yourself. I recommend starting with a selection of carpaccio, which consists of white fish carpaccio in three ways, shrimp carpaccio with truffle, and shrimp paté (particularly noteworthy). To follow, the Seafood Soup is also tasty - a mix of mussels and calamari in a well-seasoned broth. For pastas the Black Ink Spaghetti is fantastic, served with grilled monkfish and mussels, tossed in a light tomato sauce. As for the catch of the night, we ordered the Salt-Crusted Seabass - cooked to tender perfection with a side of mashed char. Insider tip: ask for the house truffle oil! Incredibly rich and creamy, it adds great flavor to the food (and serves as a good bread dip). For dessert, avoid the Cheesecake and opt for the Chocolate Trio. Dinner here was one of the most memorable meals of the trip; put De Gustibus on your list!
RIBERSKO SELO: Fish Carpaccio - Green Salad - Lobster Linguine - Blank Ink Spaghetti with Monkfish - Grilled Seabass - Cheesecake
Located on its own little island overlooking Lustica Bay, Ribersko Selo is an enchanting place to dine (especially at sunset). It's one of the most popular fish restaurants among Montenegrins, cooking up authentic Adriatic cuisine with a level of elegance. Make sure to book a table in time to enjoy the sun setting over the water. If you're spending the day at Almara Beach, you can request speedboats from the restaurant for transportation. There's no menu to choose from, as the restaurant cooks with what ever they have on hand that day. To start, the selection of fish carpaccio was good but did not measure up to that at De Gustibus. Both the Lobster Linguine and Blank Ink Spaghetti with Monkfish, however, were excellent - homemade pastas tossed in creamy tomato sauce, served with generous amounts of fish meat. You can pretty much customise your own pasta with the available fish. The Grilled Seabass was also tender and tasty. Be careful with the portions, as they are extremely generous; I recommend having either pasta or fish as the main course, to really enjoy each dish as its own. The desserts are nothing special. Overall, a delightful meal in a delightful atmosphere - the perfect way to end a day at sea.
THE DINING ROOM: Breakfast - Lunch - Dinner
This is Regent Hotel's main restaurant and also one of my top picks in Tivat; offering three different menus throughout the day, the Dining Room is an excellent choice from morning to night. For breakfast, hotel guests can enjoy a small open-buffet and an á la carte menu with noteworthy options to try: all egg dishes are great, but the Truffle Eggs are particularly remarkable (soft scrambled eggs tossed with grains of truffle for an extra kick of flavour); the French Toast carries an unpleasant aftertaste of eggwash, but the Crêpe Suzette is better. For lunch, they offer a few items from their dinner menu in addition to lighter options - try the Club Sandwich, Hamburger, Calamari served with creamy polenta mash (excellent), and the Carbonara pasta (not made as traditional Carbonara, but very creamy and cheesy nonetheless); their steak fillet is also superb, and their french fries are extraordinary. For dinner, you can enjoy the red dining room inside or ask for a table overlooking the water. Overall, The Dining Room at Regent will not disappoint at any time of day.
PORTO MONTENEGRO: Casual Dining Restaurants
If you're spending the day at Porto, there are several restaurants located around the marina serving breakfast to dinner. There is a variety to choose from: Byblos for Lebanese, Al Posto Giusto for Italian, ONE for Adriatic cuisine, Mitsu for Asian & Sushi, Mortiz Eis for ice cream, and The Clubhouse for casual bites & drinks. None are particularly notable, but the food is satisfactory and reasonably priced. Besides the exceptions noted above, dining in Montenegro is still a work-in-progress.
PLACES TO VISIT & THINGS TO DO
YACHT CLUB: Here you'll find Porto's iconic infinity pool, stretching out to the bay with a panoramic view of the mountains. You can spend the day swimming, drinking, and snacking by the pool in an upbeat and lively atmosphere - it's open from early morning to sunset. The general crowd here is youthful groups or couples, but children are also welcome. The music and cocktails here are excellent, and they serve hookah. If you're feeling peckish, you can order food by the pool; the Polenta Chips and Chicken Wrap are both great. Make sure to call and reserve sun-beds in advance. Insider tip: If possible, ask to reserve the sun-beds located on the edge of the pool to have a direct view of the bay.
BOAT TRIPS: The best way to explore and move around Montenegro is by boat; only at sea will you truly enjoy the country's beauty. There are several ways to charter boats here in Tivat, but for Regent's guests booking through the hotel is easiest. You can charter anything from a speed-boat to a yacht. The concierge will help find a boat that accommodates all your needs regarding size, price, and the kind of trip you would like to take. I highly recommend dedicating an entire day at sea - you can sail around the Bay of Kotor, stop off at any of the surrounding towns/islands to walk around, have lunch at one of the many seafront restaurants, swim in open water, and finally sail back to Porto at the end of the day. Take a look at the map and highlight the points you would like to see, and the boat's captain will plan out the best route to take. This is an unmissable and totally worthwhile experience to have here in Tivat.
OLD TOWN OF KOTOR: The rustic town still stands today as one of the most prominent historical and cultural landmarks of Montenegro. The narrow alleys, cobble-stoned streets, and high walls take visitors back to medieval times. Although Kotor has maintained most of its original architecture, the town is unfortunately flooded with cheap souvenir shops, tourist pubs, and the occasional antique store. Make sure to visit the Kotor Cathedral as well. It shouldn't take longer than 1-2 hours to explore the whole town on foot.
CASTLE OF SAN GIOVANNI: If you're stopping off at Kotor, consider climbing up to this fortress located on the mountain - approximately 1,350 steps. It's a long climb, but the view from above is worth the effort.
LADY OF THE ROCKS: One of Montenegro's important landmarks. A small islet floating in open water off the coast of Perast, most famous for its church. Put this on the map as one of your stops in the Bay of Kotor. Inside the church you'll find several works from a baroque-artist of Perast, as well as Italian artists.
ALMARA BEACH: Located near Budva, just 20-30 minutes away by car from Porto Montenegro. Almara is a lively and generally crowded beach club with pumping music, drinks, and sun-beds. Not as luxurious or "high-end" as the Yacht Club in Porto, but it gives you a chance to swim in the bay and take a small kayak boat around. As with any beach club, make sure to reserve sun-beds in advance. From there, you can request speedboats to take you to Ribersko Selo for lunch.
BLUE CAVE: Between Almara and Rebersko Selo is one of Montenegro's most popular water caves. Located on the Lustica Peninsula, this cave is definitely worth seeing - the cave ceiling is high and the water is crystal clear; a great swimming experience!
TRAVELING TIPS
1. If the span of your holiday permits, then consider visiting several towns around Montenegro to get a well-rounded experience of the country. Three to four days is enough to enjoy what Porto has to offer.
2. Prepare for a largely water-based holiday, as this is the most popular pastime here in Tivat.
3. If you're looking for a more adventurous holiday, there are plenty of outdoor activities worth researching. A few of these include zip-lining through the mountains, hike & bike tours, canyoning, and water-kayaking. Good for groups and families.
4. Focus on Adriatic cuisine, especially at restaurants located on the waterfront/shore - these are usually the best and most authentic places to eat fish.
5. Organize a boat trip in advance or as soon as you arrive to the hotel, to ensure availability on your nominated day.
6. Plan your visit according to the weather! Montenegrin heat in August is almost unbearable, and the humidity is quite high.