SALZBURG, AUSTRIA
A big city with a small town feel, Salzburg is an ideal destination for the best of both. Compared to the bustling Vienna, Salzburg is more relaxed and leisurely; but there's still plenty to do. The Salzach River divides Salzburg down the middle, with Altstadt (Old Town) on its left bank and Neustadt (New City) on its right. The Old Town is really the heart of Salzburg and the centre of its history - lined with baroque and medieval buildings, cobble-stoned streets, and quaint-looking shops. It's small, charming, and mostly pedestrian; and makes for a wonderful destination both summer and winter.
TO STAY
HOTEL SACHER: Perched directly on the right bank of the Salzach River with an open panorama of the city, Hotel Sacher is perhaps the most idyllic place to stay in Salzburg. With the New City behind it and Old Town just across the bridge, its location is both wonderful and convenient. The hotel puts guests within walking distance to almost everything - with the urban centre on one side and the historic town on the other. In a city to be explored mostly on foot, this is most ideal. Sacher's remarkable reputation extends from Vienna to Salzburg just as well: beautiful and elegant interiors, hospitable staff in traditional wear, and a very well-taken care of experience for every guest. A truly wonderful stay in Salzburg.
PLACES TO VISIT & THINGS TO DO
RESIDENZPLATZ: Right in the centre of Old Town, Residenzplatz is a large stately square surrounded by most of Salzburg's major landmarks. It's the ideal place to start exploring, just steps away from almost everything there is to see - including the Salzburg Cathedral, DomQuartier, and Stift St Peter's. At the heart of it also stands a beautifully ornate fountain and a line-up of horse carriages to trot through town.
DOMQUARTIER: Located at Residenzplatz, DomQuartier is one of Salzburg's main historical & cultural highlights. A large, Baroque complex that houses the Salzburg Residenz Gallery, State Rooms & Imperial Exhibitions; which lead out onto a terrace with a beautiful panorama of the town, down to the organ gallery of the Salzburg Cathedral (for a unique view from above), followed by exhibitions of cathedral treasures; and finally arrives to St Peter's Abbey & Museum. It's a long, extensive tour but this experience really offers the most of Salzburg. Worth an hour or two's visit; usually closed on Tuesdays.
SALZBURG CATHEDRAL: Just behind Residenzplatz and around the corner from DomQuartier is the city's most important cathedral. Home to the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Salzburg, it is the spiritual heart of the city and really the most significant religious building. Grand and spacious with magnificent Baroque interiors, it's truly breathtaking. For a unique view of the cathedral, the DomQuartier tour leads up to the organ gallery above the navel.
ST PETER'S ABBEY & MONASTERY: Considered one of the oldest monasteries in the German world and certainly the oldest in Salzburg, dating back to the 7th century. There are a few things to visit at St Peter's Monastery: the cemetery and chapel, the monastery library, and Salzburg's oldest bakery (which still makes bread in its original wood-fired oven) - let the smell of warm rye & sourdough lead the way. Then there's St Peter's Abbey, a beautiful Romanesque building just a short walk away.
FESTUNG HOHENSALZBURG: Sitting atop the Festungsberg is a large, medieval fortress and one of the biggest castles in Europe. Festung Hohensalzburg is a remarkable landmark of Salzburg's skyline, visible from almost anywhere in the Old Town. It showcases Salzburg's medieval past but more notably offers spectacular views of the city, which alone are worth a visit. A funicular at Kapitelplatz (around the corner from St Peter's) rides up to the castle and back down every 15 minutes. There's also a mountainside path to go up on foot. Visit early in the morning or later in the afternoon to avoid large crowds, and preferably on a sunny day.
KOLLEGIENKIRCHE & FRANZISKANERKIRCHE: Also located in the centre of Old Town, Kollegienkirche and Franziskanerkirche are worth a quick visit for their unique Baroque interiors. Kollegienkirche is just across Grünmarkt at the University Square. Franziskanerkirche is closer to DomQuartier and St Peter's.
GETREIDEGASSE: Salzburg's busiest and most iconic shopping street. Getreidegasse is a long strip of boutique and speciality shops, branching out into other popular streets like Altermarkt, Goldgasse, and Universitätsplatz as well as smaller alleys. Start anywhere on Getreidegasse and wander through its many side streets. Getreidegasse is also known as Mozart's birthplace and this is where the composer's first home still stands.
MOZART GEBURTSHAUS: Mozart's Birthplace stands at No.9 Getreidegasse, now a museum of his family history, musical legacy and lifetime. If there's one thing to pay homage to the great composer, this is it.
GRÜNMARKT: Across Universitätsplatz and Kollegienkirche, Grünmarkt is a local farmer's market that offers a variety of stalls to browse through - from fresh fruits & vegetables, artisan bread & cheese, to handmade crafts, flower stands, and some of the best pretzels in Salzburg. Great for picking up a snack on the go.
MIRABELL PALACE & GARDENS: On the right side of the river bank, the beautiful Mirabell Palace & Gardens is an easy and enjoyable place to visit. The exterior gardens are a joy to stroll through, with the famous entrance gate and hedge tunnel from the Sound of Music. The palace is open daily for visitors, where the Angel Staircase and Marble Hall (open Monday, Wednesday, Thursday) are its most notable highlights. Classical concerts are often held in the Marble Hall as well.
SCHLOSS LEOPOLDSKRON: A gorgeous Roccoco palace perched on an idyllic lake with wonderful views of Salzburg's mountains, Schloss Leopoldskron was once a family residence of a prince archbishop. It's now celebrated as the birthplace of the Salzburg Festival for performing arts and the most iconic shooting location for Sound of Music. The palace itself is well worth a visit for its luxurious State Rooms and their unique interiors; make sure to visit all six! The palace is just a few minutes outside the historic centre.
DAY TRIP TO HALLSTATT: Just a short drive from Salzburg (around 1.5 hours), Hallstatt is a charming little town nestled on the lake - famous for its idyllic location, 16th-century alp houses and salt production. It's an easy and enjoyable day-trip from Salzburg, where you can stroll through its lakeside town, enjoy panoramic views of the alps, and ride up to visit its historic salt mines and the breathtaking Skywalk Terrace. The easiest and fastest way to get to Hallstatt is by car. The alternative is to take bus 150 from Salzburg to Bad Ischl, change to a train to Obertraun and ride a boat across the lake (a cheaper option but it will take longer).
COFFEEHOUSES & CONFECTIONARIES
CAFÉ TOMASELLI: A traditional family-run coffeehouse in the heart of Altstadt, Café Tomaselli is one of Salzburg's most celebrated institutions with a history of over 300 years. With wood panelled interiors, classic newspaper racks, waiters in white aprons and dinner jackets, coffee served on silver trays and a display of homemade desserts... Café Tomaselli's old-world atmosphere is charming and captivating. For breakfast, lunch, or a leisurely coffee break, it's a lovely place to while away.
CAFÉ BAZAR: Perched on the right bank of the river overlooking Altstadt, Café Bazar is the second oldest coffeehouse in Salzburg. Also founded by the Tomaselli family, it upholds and cherishes the old Viennese coffeehouse tradition in its beautiful chandeliers, marble-top tables, classic newspaper racks and vested waiters. The apfelstrudel and milchramstrudel here are particularly worth a mention; they do sell out fast, so go earlier in the afternoon and ask for extra vanilla sauce because it's divine.
SACHER CAFÉ: For a taste of the original Sacher Torte, a national pride of Austria and one of its most famous desserts, look no further than the home of its creator. Sacher is a quintessential experience in Salzburg. With beautiful and elegant interiors in Sacher's signature red and an idyllic outdoor terrace overlooking the river, Sacher Café is delightful come rain or shine. In addition to their chocolate specialities and other traditional desserts like strudels and kaiserchmarrn, they also serve a breakfast and lunch menu. Reservations not required but are recommended.
CAFÉ KONDITOREI FÜRST: The home of the original Mozartkügel - a dark chocolate truffle with a marzipan centre. First created in 1890 by the confectioner Paul Fürst in dedication to the great Mozart, this chocolate bonbon gained great fame over the years and has become a part of Salzburg's heritage. Most confectioneries sell an imitation of it but nothing quite compares to the original. The original shop can be found around the corner from Altermarkt and just across Café Tomaselli.
SCHATZ KONDITOREI: A small and quaint dessert shop tucked away on one of Getreidegasse's side streets. Schatz offers a selection of traditional cakes, desserts and confections, and a few tables to enjoy something inside. Its vintage shopfront is especially charming. Closed Sundays & Mondays.
FOOD & DINING
BÄRENWIRT: An old, woodsy inn for traditional Austrian cuisine and home-style fare; Bärenwirt is one of Salzburg's most beloved restaurants for good beer and comfort food in a cosy atmosphere. They're famous for 'the best backhendl/fried chicken in town' but they serve other noteworthy dishes like beef goulash, roast pork and käsnocken; and their super-sized bread dumpling is not to be missed. Go with an appetite to enjoy their generous portions and make sure to book a table in advance.
STERNBRÄU: A brewery-restaurant for quality beer and regional cuisine, just on the edge of Altstadt on Griesgasse. To compliment its delicious beer, Sternbräu serves a variety of typical dishes like schnitzel, tafelspitz and goulash; but the bratwurst here is particularly excellent and the krautfleckerl (an Austrian cabbage-pasta dish) is worth a try. Sternbräu is actually huge and offers multiple seating areas, but its most atmospheric are the cosy Bürgersaal (indoor restaurant) and the airy Arkadengarten (courtyard-garden) right outside. Crowded mostly with locals and a buzzing atmosphere around lunchtime, it's a great spot to eat & drink like a typical Salzburger.
SACHER HOTEL: Sacher has three dining options for guests and visitors, each offering a unique experience. The most popular and atmospheric is Zirbelzimmer - a woodsy lodge-like restaurant with a rustic charm, serving traditional local cuisine as well as more refined creations. Just next door in a more sophisticated space, the Sacher Grill focuses on grilled specialities alongside a few Austrian classics. For a more casual meal, Sacher Café serves a select menu of traditional dishes and smaller snacks. An excellent experience guaranteed.
MEISSL & SCHADN: Dedicated to serving the perfect Wiener Schnitzel, Meissl & Schadn is a great place to enjoy this typical dish in a modern-classic atmosphere. The open kitchen offers a view of the chefs pounding, breading and frying the veal cutlets - which is both entertaining and inviting. The menu serves a variety of dishes but the Wiener Schnitzel with potato salad is an obvious choice (for first-timers especially). The Viennese roast beef with gravy and Tafelspitz are just as good; ask for a side of buttered spätzle too. Walk-ins are welcome but the restaurant easily fills up with reservations.
SALZBURGER BRÄTWURST: For a quick lunch/snack on the go in Altstadt, a street-stall brätwurst is simple yet satisfying; with a side of tangy sauerkraut, chips, or a soft roll to enjoy it with. These are the 3 top stalls to look for: Balkan Grill Walter, tucked away on Getreidegasse (famous for its spiced bosna sandwiches; expect a queue) - Salzburger Grill Imbiss, between Universitätsplatz and Residenzplatz (variety of sausages + sides; the grilled brätwurst is great) - Würstelstand Alter Markt, near Tomaselli (variety of sausages; opens 5 pm weekdays, 1 pm weekends).
SALZBURGER BREWERY: Visiting a traditional brewery is a great way to experience Austria's beer culture and to sample some of Salzburg's best. Stiegl Brewery and Augustiner Bräu both offer a full experience of brewery tours, beer tasting, and gastropub dining. They're both a little outside the centre but worth visiting if you're big on beer.
TRAVELING TIPS
1. If you plan an active itinerary, you can easily experience most of Salzburg in three days. It's a relatively small city and the Old Town can be explored on foot in a few hours.
2. For first visits, staying in or near Altstadt is a great convenience. This is where you'll be spending most of your time for sight-seeing, dining, shopping, etc; and that means you'll be within walking distance to almost everything.
3. Plan your trip around the weather. Salzburg is a wonderful winter destination as much as it's also beautiful in the summer. It really depends on the activities and atmosphere you're looking for.