PORTOFINO ITALY
The Italian Riviera is a cluster of coastal towns and in the heart of it sits the beautiful Portofino. Perched on the Ligurian Sea, just south of Genoa and west of Cinque Terre, it's an ideal day-trip town as well as a destination of its own. Combining rustic village charm with glamorous resort luxury, Portofino offers the best of both worlds. Old houses against a beautiful backdrop of green hills & vineyards, a charming cobble-stoned piazzetta and a harbour lined with boats, it captures the essence of the Italian Riviera with subtle splendour. Here you can truly embrace la villeggiatura - the art of a slow, sensuous stay.
TO STAY
SPLENDIDO MARE: Tucked into the harbour of Portofino on the town's main piazzetta, Splendido Mare is a relaxing retreat just steps away from everything. Resembling a guest house in both design and experience, this boutique hotel offers the best of Belmond hospitality with stylish simplicity and laidback luxury. With just 14 suites, a cosy sitting area and a small bar leading out onto the terrace restaurant, Splendido Mare allows for a more intimate and personalised stay. There's no pool or spa on-site but guests have full access to Hotel Splendido's amenities, including complementary car-service and reservation priority for either restaurant. If you're deciding between the two hotels, Splendido Mare's location encourages a more active stay in town whereas Splendido is more secluded.
HOTEL SPLENDIDO: Sitting atop the luscious hills of Portofino with panoramic views of the Ligurian Sea, Hotel Splendido is a wonderful getaway on the Italian Riviera. As one of Portofino's oldest and most famous hotels, it's all about golden-era glamour and grandeur. Its location away from the town and harbour offers a more secluded stay; guests can enjoy almost everything on-site, making it ideal if you're looking to spend most of your time at the hotel.
THINGS TO DO
BAGNI FIORE PARAGGI: Just a stone's throw away from town, Bagni Fiore Paraggi is the best beach to visit in Portofino; a long stretch of sand & sea beautifully curved into the bay and enclosed by green hills. Bagni Fiore offers serviced sun-beds along the shore as well as a wooden deck that hangs over the sea (reserve your spot in advance and specify your preference). For Belmond guests, sun-beds are complementary but reservations are required. In the back, Langosteria is an excellent choice for lunch; you can also enjoy a selection of small plates & snacks from their kitchen at your sun-bed. And for one of the most scenic walks, take the park route back to town. Just above the drive-road, this pedestrian path leads through the hills with stop-and-stare worthy views of the sea and charming Italian villas. It's truly marvellous.
GOZZO BOAT TOUR: Charter a traditional gozzo boat from the harbour and sail along Portofino's beautiful coast. Just before sunset, both the view and weather are perfect for an hour's tour. Ask your hotel concierge to arrange something for you or look for boat stops at the harbour.
SAN GIORGIO CHURCH & CASTELLO BROWN: Sitting on a hill above town, the Church of San Giorgio has one of the most wonderful viewpoints of Portofino. Plan a visit around sunset; it's a bit of a climb from the piazzetta but the view is rewarding. Just a short walk from the churchyard is a 15th-century castle also worth visiting. Castello Brown crowns the edge of Portofino's pier (unmissable from the piazzetta) and offers a wonderful viewpoint of its own as well as visits inside. These two locations are truly remarkable when in Portofino.
FOOD & DINING
DAV MARE: Casual Fine Dining - Seafood Delicacies & Ligurian Classics
Located on Splendido Mare's terrace, DaV Mare offers al fresco dining in the heart of the piazzetta with wonderful views of Portofino's harbour and its green backdrop. Enjoy an array of fresh seafood and regional delicacies prepared with sophisticated simplicity. Look for the Santa Margherita prawns, steamed langoustines and anything pesto - the Trofie pasta or risotto are excellent vessels of this Ligurian speciality. Their famous Pacchero alla Vittorio is a house-speciality not to be missed. Book a table at sunset and enjoy a slow, leisurely dinner that extends late into the evening. Sit back with a bottle of regional white wine and marvel at the picturesque surroundings. A truly enjoyable experience.
LA TERRAZZA: Fine Dining - Local Delicacies & Signature Dishes
Located at Hotel Splendido, La Terrazza hangs over Portofino's luscious hills with a panoramic view of the sea. A fine dining experience where local and seasonal delicacies are served in a chic but contemporary style. The menu offers a nice variety of seafood and meat dishes as well as some signature pastas - such as the Homage to Elizabeth Taylor spaghetti and, of course, Trofie di Recco. The housemade pesto here is excellent. While the food in general is not particularly remarkable, the wonderful setting of La Terrazza is really the main feature here. Open for lunch and dinner, make sure to book weeks in advance and if you're lucky, you can request a seaside table.
RISTORANTE PUNY: Traditional Piazzetta Eatery
Tucked into a garden-like terrace on the piazzetta, Ristorante Puny is a charming trattoria with an intimate but lively atmosphere and simple Ligurian food. Most famous for their signature Pappardelle Portofino - silky, handmade sheets in a creamy tomato-pesto sauce - this is a staple on every single table and the owner himself will make sure at least one is ordered. They serve a few fish and meat options as well, but the pasta here steals the show. As one of Portofino's most popular restaurants with just a few tables, getting a reservation can be tricky. Telephone in advance or ask your hotel concierge to help, it's very much worth it.
LANGOSTERIA PARAGGI: Beachside Eatery - Fresh Seafood
At Bagni Fiore Paraggi, Langosteria is an excellent choice for lunch at the beach. Enjoy a mid-day break in a casual wooden deck atmosphere, just steps away from the sand & sea. The light fare menu is almost purely seafood with a focus on local delicacies and fresh flavours. Their prawns and lobster dishes are especially delicious. Mix & match a few raw and cooked dishes paired with some pasta to satiate. At peak beach season it's advisable to book a table in advance. If you're lounging on Bagni Fiore you can also enjoy some bar snacks at your sun-bed.
PANIFICIO CANALE: Bakery & Deli
Ligurian focaccia (which is very different to Roman focaccia) is one of the region's must-try specialities. This small bakery in town serves some of the best in Portofino. Baked fresh every few hours, the cheese focaccia and plain salted focaccia are especially delicious. They also make traditional Italian tarts and sell a variety of local products. An ideal stop for a quick bite or snacks to go.
TRAVELING TIPS
1. If you're visiting in July or August, book everything in advance - hotels, restaurants, and even sun-beds at the beach. This is Portofino's peak season and it fills out pretty quickly.
2. Three full days is enough to see and do most things. You can divide your time between the beach, scenic walks/climbs, boat tours, and visits to some of Portofino's historic sites.
3. If your time allows, organise a day trip to Cinque Terre and explore one of its five charming towns.
4. The easiest way to get to Portofino (from anywhere in Italy) is to stop off at Santa Margherita Ligure's train station and take a car from there to town. The fastest route is to fly to Genoa and take a train to Santa Margherita Ligure. You can also take a train to SML station from almost any city in Italy but the journey will of course be longer.