EMPIRE TRAVELLER

TO STAY

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In Marrakech, I would recommend staying at a traditional riad instead of a hotel. Moroccan riads are a huge part of the culture and you definitely don't want to miss out on this unique experience. They're similar to serviced villas or boutique hotels (the best ones are usually smaller), but far more memorable and exclusive than a regular hotel. You might be tempted to stay at one of the renowned five-star luxury resorts in Marrakech, but if you're looking for a memorable travel experience, stay at a riad and visit the hotels for spa treatments.

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RIAD DAR SEVEN: Located in the old Medina, Dar Seven is a paradisal sanctuary hidden in the streets of Marrakech. A small, exclusive riad accommodating only four bedrooms, a shared lounge room, courtyard, and rooftop (unfortunately no pool) furnished in a modern Moroccan style - it will make you feel right at home. The riad is fully serviced 24 hours a day by a helpful and friendly staff team, who will pretty much do anything and everything you may ask of them (from serving breakfast, to running errands, to making reservations). The staff members there were actually one of the highlights of the trip, their hospitality is unparalleled in any big hotel - we would call them by name to ask for tea in our rooms, or telephone one of the men to walk us back to the riad at night. If you're considering Dar Seven, however, keep in mind that it's tucked away in a maze of pedestrian alleys (which means a 2-minute walk from the riad to the main road). It's also located in a remote neighbourhood that's usually swarming with people in the morning, but almost completely empty at night. But besides that, Dar Seven is one of the highly recommended riads in Marrakech. Staying here is an unforgettable experience unique to the city.

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FOOD & DINING

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AL FASSIA: (Old Medina) Mezze - Pigeon Pastilla - Lamb Tagine with Aubergine - Chicken/Beef Tagine with Caramelised Onions & Tomato - Vegetable Couscous - Almond Filo Pastry with Milk

Al Fassia Aguedal in the Old Medina (there's a newer chain in Gueliz) will make you fall in love with Moroccan cuisine. An intimate family-owned restaurant set in a traditional riad, with romantic candle-lit seating indoors and a garden set up outdoors. What makes Al Fassia (meaning the women of Fes) so special is that it mainly employs women; it pays tribute to traditional Moroccan cuisine that has been tweaked and refined by women in the kitchen, making it an excellent choice for your very first taste of tagine. The team of women there is pleasant and hospitable, and never forget a face; on our second visit, we were greeted like close friends or old regulars (they're used to having guests come back for more!). Every single dish there is spectacular - rich spices, tender meats, and hearty sauces full of flavour. The Pigeon Pastilla is a must-have - sweet and crispy filo pastry stuffed with juicy pigeon meat makes for an excellent starter. The tagines were all tasty and generous in portion, but I especially recommend the chicken and beef with caramelised onions. As for dessert, the Almond Pastry with Milk was good but nothing too special (you'll find better at Dar Yacout). Make sure you reserve in advance and ask for a table outside.

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DAR YACOUT: (Old Medina) Mezze - Chicken Tagine with Olives - Lamb Tagine with Vegetable Couscous - Almond Pastilla with Milk

This is one of Marrakech's more luxurious restaurants and a personal favourite. The dining experience here is not unlike a fairytale from A Thousand and One Nights, including live music and enchanting interiors, to grandiose service and portions fit for a royal feast. Located in the Old Medina in a lavish medieval mansion, Dar Yacout makes for a memorable and fuss-free night of Moroccan tradition. There's no menu to fret over, as it's a fixed meal of mezze, chicken, lamb, and dessert - this will be more than enough to satisfy you because the portions are huge (recommended for groups with a good appetite). To start, 8 large plates of mezze  (sweetened carrots, tomato marmalade, pickled olives, cheese rolls, etc) fill the table to kickstart the feast. To follow, an enormous tagine of chicken served with kalamata olives - super tender and full of flavour, this was a great way to get our appetites going (make sure to try both breast and thigh). Then, a large tagine of tender pull-apart lamb served in an herby broth with green peas and another large plate of vegetable couscous - these tasted excellent together. Finally for dessert, a cake-sized Almond Pastilla served with Moroccan tea - layers of filo pastry drenched in sweetened milk sauce, so addictive no matter how full you might be. Although you'll hear mixed reviews about this place (that it's too expensive or touristy), I recommend putting it on your list - the experience itself is worthwhile. 

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DAR MOHA: (Old Medina) Mezze - Chicken Pastilla - Lamb Tagine - Quail Tagine - Couscous Variation - Dessert Selection

Located in the Old Medina, Dar Moha is another traditional restaurant set in a modest riad. However, this is my least recommended restaurant in Marrakech - the atmosphere was insignificant with average service and disappointing food. Upon arriving, you get to choose your own set menu from a small variety of dishes (appetizer, main course & couscous, dessert) served with complimentary mezze. To start, the Chicken Pastilla was the best dish of the night, though it wasn't the best I've had in Marrakech. Both tagines were average - the lamb and quail meats were tender but lacked any distinct flavour, and the portions were unsatisfactory. As for dessert, all selections were horrible - the presentation was tacky and the ingredients didn't go together at all. Overall, Dar Moha wasn't the best choice; I was really excited by all the reviews I read but completely disappointed in reality. Not worth the expensive prices.

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NOMAD: (Old Medina) Mezze Plate - Shaved Cauliflower Salad - Lentil Salad - Calamari - Vegetarian Pastilla - Cardamom Ginger Orange Cake - Date Cake - Hibiscus Pana Cotta - Ice Cream

Tucked into a narrow side street, Nomad is a modern and upbeat terrace located in the heart of the local souk with a panoramic view of the Medina. Nomad makes for a great stop between the hustle and bustle of the busy market - enjoy some quick bites and iced cocktails in a modern Moroccan style with a beautiful view. Make sure to be seated out on the terrace! Don't expect too much of the food, it bordered on average/overrated, but the lively atmosphere and fashionable decor make up for it. Their desserts, however, were excellent. The Ginger Orange Cake and Date Cake are recommended, served with homemade ice-cream (also excellent, offered in many unique flavours such as almond, hibiscus, and chamomile). Go to Nomad to wind down and relax with a few drinks and small plates to nibble on, especially if you're running around the souk.

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TERRASSE DES EPICES: (Old Medina) Briouaettes Cheese - Rolled Aubergine - Trid au Poulet - Tanjia Marrakchia

Another restaurant in the Medina with a great panoramic view of the city, Terasse Des Spices is a lovely outdoors setup of low tables/chairs in a lively atmosphere - I recommend booking a table at sunset. The menu offers both Moroccan cuisine as well as international dishes (ranging from mezze and Caesar salad, to traditional tagines and burgers). The food, however, was very average (and a little disappointing). For starters, the cheese rolls and aubergine were good but nothing special. The Tanjia Marrakchia, which is braised lamb slow-cooked for 6-8 hours and supposedly a house specialty, was unsatisfactory. The Trid au Poulet (a tagine of chicken, lentils, and soft shredded pastry) received mixed reactions, but was relatively tasty; though the lentils were really dense and heavy, the chicken and pastry paired well together. I recommend Terrasse for the outdoors seating and atmosphere, but don't expect too much from the kitchen.

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GRAND CAFÉ DE LA POSTE: (Gueliz) - French-inspired cuisine

Tucked away on a quiet corner in Gueliz, this charming bistro-salon will lure you in with its nostalgic Jazz music and colonial French décor. Stepping into Grand Café is like stepping into a past of beautiful Moroccan ambience paired with classic European details - checkered tiles, wooden chairs, and cherry-red lampshades reminiscent of twentieth-century salons. I stumbled across this hidden gem by chance as I was strolling through the streets of Gueliz, but the night I spent there was delightfully soothing. The menu is mostly French cuisine mixed with Mediterranean notes (fish, escargots, truffle, risotto, etc); it's also great for some late night drinks, dessert, and tea on the terrace. I highly recommend visiting Grand Café if/when you find yourself in Gueliz, or if you're simply looking for a quiet and elegant night out. 

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LA TRATTORIA: (Gueliz) Buratta - Tagliatelle Al Ragù - Seafood Spaghetti - Filet of Beef - John Dory with Orange

Authentic Italian cuisine in an elegant riad-setting, La Trattoria offers a nice break from Moroccan cuisine in the new town of Gueliz. The atmosphere is beautiful and romantic (make sure to request a table by the piscine), though the service was a bit slow and inattentive. To start, the bread basket was phenomenal - soft ciabatta bread fresh out the oven, served with olive oil and balsamic upon request; the buratta was also great, it had a pleasantly smooth texture and distinct flavour. Both pasta dishes bordered on average - their sauces lacked flavour and density. The Filet of Beef and John Dory plates were more satisfactory but nothing special either. Overall, La Trattoria is a good way to cleanse your palate of strong Moroccan spices, but the food itself is nothing to marvel over.

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LE PAVILION/LE MENZEH AT LA MAMOUNIA HOTEL: (Gueliz) Brunch-Lunch-Afternoon Tea

Located in one of Marrakech's upscale-luxury hotels, both Le Pavilion and Le Menzeh offer a brief experience of La Mamounia's sanctuary. The hotel itself is a lavish palace styled in Moorish grandeur and the legendary royal gardens are, of course, worth a visit. If you're not a guest at the hotel, La Mamounia has several bars and restaurants open for outside visitors (via reservation). Le Pavilion is set by the pool outside, offering an international menu suitable for light lunch and drinks. Le Menzeh is a small ice-cream/pastry shop located in the heart of the gardens with a few tables set around it - good for lounging around and enjoying sweets & drinks (their baklava is extraordinary!), but the atmosphere is nothing special and the prices are undeservedly expensive. The terrace just outside the lobby next to the pool is nicer - the location is elegant and relaxing, and more lively than the rest. Check out La Mamounia's other restaurants if you're looking for upscale dining, and make sure to reserve beforehand.

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PLACES TO VISIT & THINGS TO DO

 

JARDIN MAJORELLE: Originally founded by Jacques Majorelle and later revived by Yves Saint Laurent, this enchanting paradise lays in the heart of the new city as an homage to art & nature. The Majorelle Garden creates harmony between an artist's cultivated work and nature's wild creations in a masterpiece of vibrant colours & botanical decor; a combination of Moorish tradition and Art Deco allure. The Blue Square Fountain is the main attraction of the visit - the deep-blue shades of the Berber house are soothing and stunning, contrasted by bright tiles and tall cacti; the entire place is picture-perfect. You'll also find YSL's memorial nearby and a café. I recommend visiting the gardens early in the morning or later in the evening to avoid lingering crowds and long lines; but if you do go at midday, don't be discouraged by the queue because it moves pretty quickly (20-30 mins average). 

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JEMAA EL-FENAA: The most notorious square and market place in all of Marrakech, Jemaa El-Fenaa will dazzle and surprise you any time of the day. This is an unmissable spectacle in the Old Medina and you're bound to pass through it a couple of times to get to other places. The morning is a good time to go market-hunting for unique handicrafts and souvenirs; you'll also find plenty of stalls selling local oils, herbs, and spices to take back home. At night is when the square really comes to life, with startling street performances, music, and late-night shenanigans - it can be a little overwhelming but an interesting experience nonetheless. Be careful with your money and secure your handbags; it's not a dangerous place, but big markets are always known to be dodgy. Prepare yourself for a lot of bargaining - salesmen may not budge their prices at first, but a little haggling could go a long way.  

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KOUTOUBIA MOSQUE: Just across from Jemaa El-Fenaa, Koutoubia is one of the city's most famous mosques and meeting places. Though its architecture is not particularly significant or unique, you're bound to pass by it several times throughout your visit to the Medina (especially if you're roaming around the market place). You'll immediately spot it from a distance, thanks to its tall minaret and frequent prayer calls that resonate throughout the streets. 

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BAHIA PALACE: A serene and spacious 19th century palace full of ornate mosaic tile-work and painted doors, with a beautiful set of courtyards. This is one of the more peaceful as well as aesthetically pleasing sites to visit in the Old Medina (more worthwhile than the Badii Palace). Make sure you go through all the different sections inside, because there's more to see than you think. Not too far from Jemaa El-Fenaa and the Koutoubia Mosque, the Bahia Palace is a convenient stop-off on your tour around the Medina. 

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BEN YOUSSEF MEDERSA/MOSQUE: Two of the most popular historical sites in Marrakech, Ben Youssef school and mosque illustrate the beautiful tradition of Moroccan architecture, culture, and handiwork. These are two separate sites within walking distance, located in the same area as Jemaa El-Fenaa as well as several other tour-sites. The Ben Youssef Mosque is one of the oldest in the city and is definitely the most worthwhile to visit. Both the school and mosque are built in Moorish/Islamic architecture, decorated in elaborate woodwork, colourful tiles, and Arabic inscriptions. Prior to or following your visit, you'll find several restaurants/cafés nearby - such as Nomad, Terrasse Des Epices, and Le Jardin (all excellent for afternoon breaks). 

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SAADIAN TOMBS/KASBAH MOSQUE: A little further south from the central Medina, the Saadian Tombs are another historical highlight in Marrakech. Unless you're already in the area, you would not be missing out on much if you skip this one out - the architecture and tile-work is similar to Ben Youssef Medersa. Also close to the Kasbah Mosque, these two sites are considered the southern-end replicas of Ben Youssef Medersa and Koutoubia Mosque (if you're short on time and have already seen the former, no need to make the trip to see these two). 

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MENARA GARDENS: In case you're wondering, and in case you've seen appealing photos online of the Menara Gardens (located in Gueliz), let me warn you that it is a disappointing waste of time. Speaking from first-hand experience, it's nothing as it appears in photos. The gardens are shamefully uncultivated and barren, with no botanical designs to marvel at; and the long artificial lake in the middle is brown and murky. I couldn't spend more than 10 minutes looking around the place.  

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ROYAL MANSOUR HOTEL & SPA: A luxurious palace and haven in the new city, Royal Mansour will take you away from the hustle and bustle of Marrakech to a paradise of indulgence, comfort, and tranquility. The hotel is decorated in a contemporary-chic Moroccan style, with spacious entrances, gardens, and pool area. The staff team is polite and professional, making your visit a delightful experience. As for the spa, it's absolutely breathtaking! Its all-white interiors make you feel like you're in heaven, and your experience there will be nothing short of it. I booked a hammam appointment and it was one of the top highlights of my trip - I imagine their other spa treatments would be just as splendid. This is a great way to spend an afternoon, especially after a long week running around Marrakech. The Royal Mansour spa is more pricey than others, but it's definitely worth it. 

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HERITAGE HAMMAM & SPA: A small and modest spa in the Old Medina, offering various hammam treatments and massages. The place is difficult to find as it's tucked away in a narrow alley, so try to follow a map or ask for directions. I booked a massage appointment there, hoping for a traditional experience, but I was personally very disappointed. The place itself is doudy and uncomfortable, the masseuse was barely qualified, and the massage was so average that I walked out of there exactly as I had walked in. Heritage is moderately priced and a good bargain for spa treatments, but not particularly enjoyable. I would definitely not recommend taking a hammam appointment there, I imagine it would be of poor standards. I recommend spending a little more for a truly memorable experience somewhere else. 

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DAY TRIP TO OURIKA VALLEY: During your stay in Marrakech, you'll find plenty of day-trip offers to various locations by the Atlas Mountains. I recommend visiting any of the waterfalls there because they're breathtaking. I took a day-trip to Ourika just 30km away from Marrakech, where the river rises in the High Atlas and flows throughout the valley. There are 7+ waterfalls, each one located higher up the Atlas with breathtaking views of the mountains. I spent around 3 hours hiking up the waterfalls - a truly incredible and unmissable experience. I would recommend taking a guide with you (you'll find plenty at the bottom of the mountain) - they know the best tread paths like the back of their hand and will make the hike a lot easier to do. Try to go as early as possible to enjoy a full day at the mountains without rushing through the hike. On your drive up there, you'll also find a well-renowned women's cooperative selling top quality oils, herbs, and organic products. If you're looking for a reliable place to get argan oil, this is it. Their homemade honey is also extraordinary. 

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TRAVELING TIPS

 

1. Stay in a traditional riad house. This is a remarkable experience unique to Morocco, where your stay will feel more intimate and catered than any luxury hotel. You'll find plenty of riad accommodations around the city to suit your needs (rooms, price range, location).

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2. Know that Marrakech is divided into two towns. The Old Medina is where you'll find most of the historical sites, local markets, and traditional experiences - it's loud, crowded, and can be very overwhelming. The new town Gueliz is modern and urban, where you'll find more international shops, restaurants, and standard city life. No matter where you stay, you can easily move in and out of the two towns on foot or by taxi.

 

3. Map your way around Marrakech to save yourself the time and the trouble. Several historical sites will be bundled closely together, whereas others will be scattered further away - have a clear sense of what is where, in order to be more efficient with your tour. Be aware of opening hours, as many sites tend to close by 5 pm.

 

4. Learn to bargain! This is an essential skill to have in Morocco, especially in the local markets because Moroccans are great hagglers. Salesmen will offer high prices at first, so bargain your way down to a more appropriate number. Compare prices between different market stalls - if you're planning to buy a big bundle of souvenirs or handicrafts, get a good idea of what the general price-range is before settling for something. You can even bargain taxi prices, but don't push it because there are legal set-rates for certain trips.

 

5. Try a traditional hammam! This body-care treatment is an unmissable staple to any visit to Morocco. Unless you're looking for a very local experience, I recommend booking an appointment at a top-end spa (especially at hotels, where you can guarantee good quality products, professional service, and luxury treatment). Keep in mind that a hammam is an intimate bathing process that should be both pleasant and comfortable, so spending a little more will be worthwhile.

 

6. Don't be afraid to explore! Walking through those narrow alleys in the Medina is a great way to see Marrakech as it is. Moroccan cuisine is a huge part of the experience, so make sure to explore with your taste buds as well. Try traditional pastries from market stalls, drink fresh orange juice, and eat as many tagines as possible! 

 

7. Take a day trip outside of Marrakech, preferably to one of the waterfall valleys by the Atlas Mountains. It's an incredible experience in itself and a good chance to get away from the busy city for a few hours. 

 

8. Pack appropriate clothes that accommodate the hot weather and Moroccan culture. It's not forbidden to wear revealing clothes, but it will attract unwanted stares from locals (especially in the Old Medina). With Moroccan heat, you'll find that covering your skin in light + loose clothes is more comfortable anyway.