EMPIRE TRAVELLER

TO STAY

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THE VINTAGE: An independent boutique hotel with a young, mid-century-modern vibe and an excellent location in the heart of the city. The Vintage is just a stone's throw from the cultural district of Principe Real, the lively Bairro Alto neighbourhood, the fashionable Avenida Liberdade as well as the historical hub of Chiado, making it an ideal base point to explore the city on foot. In spite of its central location, however, the hotel sits on a nicely quiet street away from the crowds. The rooms are perfectly cosy and comfortable, and there's a retro-style area by the lobby to hang out as well as a scenic rooftop bar. A very pleasant and practical place to stay.

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THE IVENS: A stylishly maximalist hotel in the heart of the city, The Ivens (an Autograph Collection hotel) sits between the lively districts of Bairro Alto and Chiado with vivacious interiors and a see-and-be-seen atmosphere. The hotel is a feast for the eyes upon entrance - from the lobby, to the trendy Italian restaurant and Crudo bar, down to the picture-worthy guest bathrooms. A great place to stay for a more luxurious and exclusive experience, with the hub of the city just outside.

 

COFFEE & PASTRIES

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MARQUISE DA MOBLER: An independent bakery, café and concept store all in one, Marquise de Mobler offers a nice selection of pastries and coffee in the morning, small plates and sandwiches in the afternoon, as well as handcrafts to buy. It's a pleasant, little hideaway with a garden in the back for a quick-grab or an afternoon break. Just a short walk from Principe Real and Bairro Alto.

 

DRAMÁTICO: A small specialty coffeeshop using beans from the renowned La Cabra in a bright and minimal space. Perfect for a quick but excellent coffee break near Principe Real.

 

CONFEITARIA NACIONAL: This historical café and confectionery is one of Lisbon's most classic institutions, dating back to the 19th century when it originally served as the royal family's official confectioner. Located in the cultural and historical hub of Baixa de Lisboa, the original store still sits on Praça da Figueira - a short walk from other landmarks like Elevador de Santa Justa, Rua Santa Augusta, and Praça do Comércio. Stop by for the interiors, the history, and a little something to go.

 

BRASILEIRA: In the hub of the Chiado district, A Brasileira is another one of Lisbon's most famous cafés with an iconic Art-Deco facade and beautifully classic interiors. It's one of the more touristy checklist spots but it is a celebrated part of Lisbon's artistic and literary culture, and ideally located off the busy avenue of Rua Garrett, lined with brand-name shops and specialty boutiques like Paris em Lisboa and Granada Perfumes, the famous Livraria Bertrand and the historic central square of Luis de Camões.

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CASTRO: The abundance of pastéis de nata in Lisbon is exciting, overwhelming, and deserves a tour of its own; but after many trials, it's rewarding to find that one, perfect spot. Castro is one of them. An artisanal 'atelier' with just two locations in Lisbon (one on the famous Rua Garett, the other near Elevador Santa Justa) and one in Porto; it's an upscale and elevated experience of this national classic, baked fresh throughout the day with an open kitchen to watch. Perfectly crisp and flakey pastry shell, a deliciously caramelised top with a rich filling close to the texture of crème brulée and a subtle aftertaste of brown butter/sugar - it ticks all the checkmarks of a perfect pastel de nata. Absolute must try.

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MANTEIGARIA: Perhaps Lisbon's most famous and popular, Manteigaria's pastel de nata earned its reputation as one of the very best. Always recommended by locals and travellers alike, and guaranteed to satisfy. The crisp, buttery pastry shell holds itself well with a soft top layer and a creamy but set filling; mild in flavour and light in colour. It's a perfectly good pastel de nata. There are several locations around Lisbon, with the original store located in Chiado on Rua do Loreto and another popular one on Rua Augusta.

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PASTÉIS DE BELÉM: Not to be mistaken with the generic pastéis de nata, the pastries served here are completely exclusive to this historic institution and referred to only by their namesake; baked using a secret, unchanged recipe from the monastery dating back to 1837. Located a little outside the city centre next to the beautiful Jeronimos Monastery, Pastéis de Belém deserves a trip of its own. It's a big and spacious shop with plenty of seating and a few other bits on the menu, ideal for a break before or after visiting the monastery.

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LANDEAU CHOCOLATE: Portuguese chocolate is not something to overlook and Landeau is a testament to this. With only two locations in Lisbon (the original at LX Factory, another on Rua das Flores in Príncipe Real) and a single item on the menu, Landeau's chocolate cake is close to legendary. A barely-there cake base topped with a rich chocolate mousse, dusted with pure cocoa powder and a touch of salt for good balance. Spectacular and absolutely worth trying.

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FOOD & DINING

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FAZ FRIO: This small, unassuming restaurant in Prîncipe Real is one of Lisbon's best places to sample local cuisine. The menu rotates a few items on seasonality with a nice variety of meat and fish options, but you can expect signature staples like cod fritters, tiger shrimp in a deliciously buttery sauce served with citrus rice and bread to mop up, and their famous brás de trufa dish which is their unique take on a Portuguese classic and an absolute must-order on the menu. Finish with a slice of sericaia (a typical egg-pudding type dessert) and a glass of local moscatel. Open for lunch and dinner on a walk-in basis only.

 

TABERNA RUA DAS FLORES: Contemporary tradition in a rustic tavern setting. Taberna Rua das Flores is one of those 'if-you-know-you-know' hot spots in Lisbon for local cuisine with an artisanal touch and an excellent selection of wine. Tucked away on a narrow street just off of Praça Luis de Camões, Taberna Rua das Flores can be hard to spot if you're not looking for it (although the long queue outside can be an obvious tell). There's just a few tables to snag on a first-come basis; the best way to get seated is to line up at least a half hour before they open for lunch or dinner. Before service, their daily changing menu is written out on a chalkboard and passed around by each table for a run-down; it's a fun, laidback and intimate experience. Order several dishes to share and make sure to end with their famous chocolate mousse (arguably the best in Lisbon).

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TABERNA SAL GROSSO: In the Alfama district, tucked a few steps below ground, awaits perhaps one of the best meals you'll have in Lisbon. Taberna Sal Grosso is another small, unassuming tavern that will completely surprise you. Their seasonal menu has a generous variety of meat and fish, with some signature staples like wild boar brioche, fork-tender beef cheeks or oxtail, and bacalhau à bràs (which you cannot leave Lisbon without trying and this is some of the very best in the city). With just a few tables and only two seating times for lunch and dinner, reservations at Sal Grosso are essential. 

 

GAMBRINUS: One of Lisbon's oldest restaurants in the heart of Baixa, Gambrinus is celebrated for its long-standing history and reputation. Classic and traditional with white table cloths, rich wood paneling, and vested waiters, Gambrinus makes for a fine dinner in a charming atmosphere. The menu offers a variety of Portuguese dishes with some house specialities like partridge pie, fish stew, and their famous beef croquettes (typically served at the bar but can be asked for with your appetiser). Finish with their signature crepes suzettes, or the more traditional toucinho do céu (almond tart) and abade de priscos pudding (a very unique Portuguese dessert). For a more informal experience or a quick bite, Gambrinus also offers petiscos/snacks like croquettes and bifanas by the bar. Reservations recommended for the restaurant.

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PRADO: Modern, seasonal cuisine in a casual but elevated atmosphere. Prado is well established in Lisbon's contemporary dining scene, with two separate spaces just steps away from Rua Augusta on one side and the Lisbon Cathedral on the other. At the official restaurant, their farm-to-table approach highlights seasonal ingredients through artful creations alongside natural, organic and biodynamic wines in a green, light-filled oasis. Just next door, the mercearia is a wine-bar and bistro with a limited but fulfilling menu, including artisanal cheese & charcuterie boards, daily sandwiches for lunch, and a selection of small plates; you can also purchase some of their in-house products and wines at this location. Both spaces are open for lunch and dinner; reservations required.

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PALACIO DO GRILO: Set in a grand Baroque-Neoclassical palace and garden, this fine dining restaurant offers a very unique and memorable experience - contemporary cuisine in classic surroundings. The restaurant has three main dining areas, all equally beautiful but the Oculus room is particularly unique if you can request a table there. Reservations recommended especially for dinner. Palacio Do Grilo also prides itself as a 'theatre' for all guests and a stage for artistic expression - often used as a performance space for artists and designers when it's not set for service. You can also visit during the day for a wander around and a drink at the bar; it's about a 15-minute drive from Alfama but totally worth seeing.

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MAGNOLIA: A young and trendy wine bar near Príncipe Real, Magnolia is a great place to stop for a quick or leisurely break in the area. The atmosphere is fun and laidback, and the street-side tables are perfect for whiling away the afternoon. They have a nice selection of natural wines and small plates to go along; as well as a brunch menu on most mornings.

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QUIOSQUE SÃO PAULO: Quiosques, or kiosks, are a significant part of Lisbon's social and cultural scene; the city is dotted with one on every corner where locals gather for drinks & snacks throughout the day, and it's something to experience when visiting. This is one of the best places to do it. From the team behind Taberna Rua das Flores, Quiosque São Paulo dishes out the same quality in the form of street snacks, sandwiches and salad dips. If you order only one thing here, it's the cult classic Sandes Lula Frita (fried squid sandwich) - which is worth going specifically for. One of the best things you'll eat in Lisbon. Pair with a glass of their cool, house-made limonada followed by a pot of the taberna's famous chocolate mousse.

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BIFANAS DO AFONSO: One of Portugal's most popular street foods is the humble but punching bifana - thin slices of slow simmered pork sandwiched in a crisp bread roll with yellow mustard - and Afonso serves some of the city's best. It's a small, takeaway vendor in Baixa just a short walk from Rua Augusta and down the street from Prado. There's usually a long queue but it moves fairly quickly and you can grab a seat on the bench across. Cash only.

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O TREVO: Another top contender for authentic bifanas, O Trevo is an old-school snack bar and a renowned local favourite (as well as Anthony Bourdain's). Located in the heart of Chiado on the corner of Praça Luís de Camões and a short walk to Rua Garett. Cash only.

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PLACES TO VISIT & THINGS TO DO

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Lisbon is divided into a few main districts that seamlessly meld into one another but each has a distinct character; being familiar with the different neighbourhoods is a good way to navigate the city.

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PRÍNCIPE REAL: Starting at the top of Lisbon's map, Príncipe Real is one of the city's more affluent districts. This is where you'll find the luxury shopping street of Avenue da Liberdade and the beautiful concept store of EmbaiXada, many of the city's finest restaurants and hotels like The Vintage and Faz Frio, and one of Lisbon's largest viewpoints at Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara. From there, it's a short walk down to Bairro Alto and Chiado.

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BAIRRO ALTO & CHIADO: Just south of Príncipe Real, Bairro Alto is Lisbon's more hip and bohemian neighbourhood; known for its colourful buildings, narrow cobbled alleys and vibrant nightlife where crowds spill out from surrounding bars. The more elegant and sophisticated Chiado takes you further into the hub of the city. This is where you'll find Rua Garett, lined with boutique shops like Paris em Lisboa, A Vida Portuguesa, and the famous Livraria Bertrand; popular cafés like Brasiliera and Castro; the National Museum of Contemporary Art and Fernando Pessoa's iconic sculpture. From there, the historic square of Praça Luis de Camões leads down to Taberna Rua das Flores, Quiosque São Paulo, and the famous Elevador de Bica. A full day's worth of things to do.

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BAIXA: Known as the 'downtown' of Lisbon, Baixa is characterised by its wide streets and broad squares, 18th century architecture and historic landmarks. This is where you'll find the famous Elevador Santa Justa, Confeitaria Nacional, and the historic Praça da Figueira; the busy Rua Augusta (stop at Manteigaria for pastel de nata), the triumphal arch of Arco da Rua Augusta and the waterside plaza of Praça do Comércio lined with more shopping arcades and cafés. Between Baixa and Alfama is where you'll find spots like Prado, Bifanas do Afonso, and Sé (the Lisbon Cathedral).

 

TRAM 28 & ELEVADOR DA BICA: Lisbon's streets are dotted with colourful trams and these are two of the most famous ones to ride. Tram 28 (dating back to 1914) routes from one end of the city to the other, passing through all the main neighbourhoods like Chiado, Baixa and Alfama with several major landmarks to stop off at. A fun and easy way to do a hop-on-hop-off tour of Lisbon. Elevador da Bica (an engineering marvel dating back to 1888) is perhaps the most photographed tram in the city, which climbs up a steep and narrow alley that connects Rua de São Paulo (where you can grab lunch at Quiosque São Paulo) with Calçada do Combro (a short walk back to Praça Luis de Camões). 

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ELEVADOR SANTA JUSTA: In the heart of Baixa, Elevador Santa Justa is a unique historic landmark that's hard to miss. An industrial Art-Deco style elevator stemming tall in a narrow alley, and rides up to a panoramic viewpoint of the city and the Carmo Convent. It's worth riding if you go early and avoid the long queues. 

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MIRADOURO SÃO PEDRO DE ALCÂNTARA: Between Príncipe Real and Chiado, this is perhaps Lisbon's most scenic and relaxing viewpoint. With a large park-like square and fountain, benches and tables along the edge, and a garden space below, it's a wonderful place to while away the afternoon or catch the sunset. 

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MIRADOURO DAS PORTAS DO SOL: Perhaps Lisbon's largest hilltop viewpoint with a sweeping panorama of Alfama and the sea. It's a short walk up from the Sé Cathedral as well as a stop point on Tram 28.

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MIRADOURO SANTA LUZIA: Just around the corner from Portas Do Sol, Miradouro Santa Luzia has a tiled pergola and garden with sweeping views of the sea. It's another one of Lisbon's more popular viewpoints, especially beautiful at sunset and just a short walk from Taberna Sal Grosso for dinner.

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BELÉM: A short ride from Lisbon's centre, Belém is known as the 'museum quarter' of the city because of its historic monuments. Start the day with breakfast at Pastéis de Belém, followed by a visit to the Gothic Jeronimos Monastery and the hauntingly beautiful cathedral of Santa Maria de Belém. There's lots more to do in the area, like the Belém Tower and the Monument to Discoveries, depending on how long you want to stay.

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SINTRA: If you're staying long enough for a day trip, Sintra is the place to go. Around a half-hour drive from Lisbon, Sintra is a wonderful hilltop town known for its historic palaces and castles, gardens, and its charming small-town feel. Pena Palace is the main attraction here and the focus of any visit - a colourful Romanticist castle on the hills of Sintra, which can easily take a few hours to tour. Another notable landmark in Sintra is Quinta Da Regaleira - a large Gothic complex with lots to see, including a palace and chapel, an Initiation Well, a waterfall lake and grotto, and not to mention a walk through its surrounding forest. Start your visit to Sintra as early as possible if you plan on doing a full tour, it will easily take up most of the day.

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BOUTIQUE SHOPS​

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A VIDA PORTUGUESA: This unique boutique shop in Chiado takes you back in time the moment you walk in. Set in a beautiful, old apothecary-type space with original cabinets and vintage powder jars from the time it was a perfume factory, A Vida Portuguesa maintains that old-world charm. It brand showcases Portuguese culture in an array of artisanal products, handcrafted accessories and timeless designs - everything from toiletries and linen, chinaware and home decor, to kitchen and pantry products. There's a timeless feel to A Vida Portuguesa and it is truly such a gorgeous shop. The original location sits on Rua Anchieta, just next door to Livraria Bertrand, Cerâmicas na Linha, and The Ivens hotel. 

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PARIS EM LISBOA: The grand art-deco facade of this shop is hard to miss on Rua Garett. Paris Em Lisboa is a luxurious but bespoke home goods shop specialising in bed, bath, and table linen since 1888. The space itself is beautiful and worth a quick wander around if you're in the area; just around the corner from Brasiliera and right next door to Livraria Bertrand.

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GRANADO: Across the street from Paris Em Lisboa, Granado is another eye-catching boutique shop of the renowned perfume brand. Gorgeous bottles and packaging that make for a nice gift or souvenir.

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EMBAIXADA: Located in the Ribeiro da Cunha Palace on Praça Prîncipe Real, this concept department store is worth visiting for its unique neo-Arab palatial setting and grand staircase, as well as a niche selection of contemporary brands. It can be hard to spot if you're not looking for it; just across Jardim do Príncipe Real and a short walk from Faz Frio.​

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CERÂMICAS NA LINHA: A popular and renowned brand for handmade pottery and ceramics if you're on the hunt for unique tableware or home accessories. They have three shops around Lisbon but the best one is in Chiado, just next door to A Vida Portuguesa.

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CECILE *M: If you take the famous Elevador da Bica up to the top and walk towards the Church of Saint Catherine, this small ceramic shop is just a short walk away. If you're into minimalist ceramics and singular tableware, there's a nice selection to browse through. It's also a short walk to Marquise de Mobler or Magnolia Bistrot from there.

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TRAVELING TIPS

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1. Lisbon is very much an outdoor, pedestrian city with a lively feel, which makes the warmer seasons a more inviting time to visit. Plan your trip between Spring and Summer to experience that vibrant atmosphere.

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2. The best way to navigate your way around Lisbon is by knowing its major districts and what you can expect to see/do in each one. Lisbon can appear big on the map but you can see pretty much all of it on foot, and the different neighbourhoods are within walking distance to each other. That being said, comfortable shoes are essential for all the up and down hill walking you'll be doing.​

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3. For a first visit, Príncipe Real is perhaps the most pleasant neighbourhood to stay; it's close to the centre but nestled away from the hustle and bustle of it. Chiado would be closer to the hub and crowds of the city if you prefer busier surroundings.