FLORENCE, ITALY
As the capital of Tuscany and the birthplace of the Renaissance, Florence is one of Italy's most historic and cultural cities. It's home to some of the world's most famous art and architecture, fashion, and some of the best regional cuisine; making it an ideal destination for anyone with lots to see and do. And though Florence is a big city, it still has that charming and rustic small-town feel; it's lively as much as it is romantic; and an enchanting city to visit all year round.
TO STAY
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL: Housed in a magnificent Renaissance palazzo with acres of gardens, the Four Seasons offers a true sanctuary in the heart of Florence. The hotel is situated within minutes of many historic landmarks and town squares like Piazza del Duomo and della Repubblica, the Accademia Gallery and Palazzo Vecchio; an ideal location to explore the city on foot without being in the centre of its crowds. Gorgeous interiors in true palazzo form, coupled with top-tier hospitality and service makes this an unforgettable experience. There's truly no better place to stay in Florence.
NUMEROVENTI: A contemporary residency-hotel housed in an old Renaissance palace, Numeroventi is an aesthetically cool place to stay in the centre of Florence (just a short walk from Piazza del Duomo and Piazza della Repubblica). It's an interdisciplinary space for creatives with boutique lofts as well as rotating artist and chef residencies, so you can expect a young and artistic crowd there. A good place to stay if you're looking for more of an apartment experience.
FOOD & DINING
RESTAURANTS
BUCA LAPI: Perhaps the oldest restaurant in Florence, Buca Lapi offers a genuine taste of Tuscan cuisine in a historic location; tucked away on a side alley just minutes from Piazza del Duomo. Housed in the wine cellars of Palazzo Antinori, one of the oldest winemakers in Italy, Buca Lapi's unique setting and intimate atmosphere is very much part of the dining experience. The menu offers traditional Tuscan classics like pappa al pomodoro, slow-cooked ragu, and of course the famous Florentine bistecca steak, best paired with Marchesi Antinori wine. The food is rich, generous, and fulfilling. Sample a few pasta dishes to start (particularly the hand-rolled pappardelle al cinghiale and maltagliati pomodoro), followed by meat dishes like the fork-tender cinghiale and the famous bistecca alla griglia (a very generous portion to share). Finish with their famous chocolate torte for dessert. Open for dinner only, reservations essential.
BUCA MARIO: Located in a vaulted 16th-century dining room, Buca Mario is another one of Florence's most famous restaurants. Though it's popular with locals and travellers alike, the restaurant maintains a traditional atmosphere and home-style cooking both deserving of its reputation. The menu offers a bigger variety but the main highlight here is really any meat-based dish. To start, the homemade ricotta cappellacci, ragù gnocchi and lasagna are all celebrated specials worth trying. For mains, of course the Florentine bistecca is one of the best in the city and the sliced grilled steak is just as good. The dessert trolley is a feast for the eyes when they roll it out to your table, but the tiramisu and custard budino are the obvious choices here. The restaurant offers two dinner seatings (7:00 pm and 9:30 pm), both of which are always busy. Make sure to reserve in advance and politely ask for a table in the main dining room.
TRATTORIA CAMMILLO: An iconic dining spot in Florence for home-style Tuscan fare in a traditional trattoria setting. Cammillo is truly charming in the simplest way. It's always busy but the atmosphere remains cosy and intimate, and the service unhurried. The menu offers a large variety of dishes; two specials are the brûlée pecorino cheese to start, followed by homemade tortellini in broth or cream (which you won't see in often in Florence), and one of the veal fillet plates. For dessert, the tiramisu is hands down one of the best in the city. Located in Oltrarno (the other side of the Arno River), Cammillo is tucked away on a small side street just off of the famous Ponte Santa Trinita. Open for lunch and dinner, reservations essential to avoid a long wait.
CIBRÉO: A caffé, trattoria and ristorante in the charming area of Sant'Ambrogio, Cibréo became a Florentine institution for both cultural and gastronomical reasons. The caffé resembles an old theatre-salon and the checkered-cloth trattoria feels very familial, both offering a casual and laidback setting; whereas the candle-lit ristorante offers a more formal atmosphere and sophisticated dining. Each location offers a different menu, but what you really want to try on your first visit is their world-renowned tagliolini cacio e burro (which has become a trademark Cibréo dish) served exclusively at the Caffé. The fork-tender roast beef and boneless beefsteak are also two of the best orders here. Reservations at any of their venues (all three are located side by side) are recommended.
ANTICA OSTERIA DEL MIRASOLE: A true milestone in Italian dining, Osteria Mirasole is one of those rare places that will completely enchant you from door to dessert. Actually located a little outside of Bologna, if you're staying long enough in Florence for a day trip, it's every bit worth the trek. This family-run osteria in the small town of San Giovanni Persiceto will whisk you away for a few hours from the outside world to an intimate atmosphere of lace-curtained windows, floral plates, and familial decor that all feels like nonna's home. Serving traditional Bolognese food that is rich, hearty, and comforting, all sourced from two local meat & dairy farms. Their Tortellini alla Panna is an icon of its own, and the Cotoletta alla Bologense is one of the most delicious things you'll try. For dessert, the Latte Ristretto al Caramello (like crème caramel) is so good we immediately ordered a second one. Come for a long, leisurely lunch that will easily stretch from noon to three o'clock and do reserve in advance.
SCHIACCIATA & GELATO
ALL'ANTICO VINAIO: If you've heard of the world-famous All'Antico Vinaio, their original shop started here in Florence and it is genuinely an excellent place for schiacciata panini. The queues are intimidatingly long if you go during peak lunch hours, but the service is quick and it's worth the wait. They have several signature panini to choose from as well as the option to customise your own. The one on Via dei Neri (which is close to Piazza della Signoria, Palazzo Vecchio and the Uffizi Gallery) is the biggest one in Florence but also the busiest. Go to the one in San Marco near the Accademia Gallery for shorter queues and walk a few metres down to Piazza San Marco or Spedale Degli Innocenti to sit down and enjoy your panino.
PANETTERIA DE NERI: For a more local street version of All'Antico Vinaio, Panetteria de Neri is a good option just a little further down the street. They offer a few similar options and plenty of ingredients to choose from.
INO: For a gourmet and artisanal panino, Ino offers a more high-end experience with freshly-baked bread sliced to order and a delicatessen-style display to choose from. The variety is more select because the ingredients on offer are of the highest quality; but do note that the bread is crunchier than most schiacciata places. It's just around the corner from the Uffizi Gallery and a short walk to Ponte Vecchio. They have a few tables inside or better yet, enjoy your panini along the Arno river.
SEMEL: A historic panini & wine shop near Mercato Sant'Ambrogio, Semel serves only a few select sandwiches at lunchtime. The bread here is more a roll than schiacciata or focaccia; and the cheese & pear panino is the most famous. A quick grab-and-go spot if you're in the area.
VIVOLI: The best and most popular affogato spot in Florence. Vivoli's famous gelato-scooped cup has become somewhat of an icon of the city, and for good reason. The queue is usually long but the wait time is short and the service quick; you'll be in and out in minutes to enjoy your affogato out on the street. Their regular gelato is also worth trying while you're at it.
GELATERIA LA CARRAIA: Across the river at the tip of Ponte alla Carraia, this small gelateria serves some of the tastiest gelato in the city. Perfectly smooth and creamy texture and bursting with flavour. The white chocolate-pistachio gelato here is particularly special.
GELATERIA DEI NERI: Between the Uffizi Gallery and Santa Croce, Gelateria dei Neri is a small and traditional gelato shop with plenty of flavours to try. If their caramel-fudge paste is available, do not leave without it. The gelato texture here is not as smooth as La Carraia, but it is good.
BADIANI GELATO: The world-famous Badiani first opened in Florence and it's certainly worth visiting the original, just around the corner from Piazza del Duomo. Their signature buontalenti gelato with pistachio cremino is a must try.
PLACES TO VISIT & THINGS TO DO
PIAZZA DEL DUOMO: The heart of historic Florence and its main square, where you'll find the famous Basilica Santa Maria del Fiore. This is a great starting point to explore the city on foot, with other landmarks like Galleria dell'Accademia, Piazza della Repubblica, and Palazzo Vecchio just minutes away. The cathedral itself is by queueing only (which can take hours), but there are other monuments of the duomo to visit by timed entrance like the dome, bell tower, museum and baptistery (pre-booking your ticket is highly recommended).
GALLERIA DELL'ACCADEMIA: This is where Michelangelo's famous statue of David stands. The galleria is also home to other Michelangelo sculptures and major Renaissance paintings, making it one of Florence's most significant hubs for art. Purchase a timed-entrance ticket in advance to avoid the long queue outside.
UFFIZI GALLERY: Perhaps the most significant art museum in Florence, housing a large collection of sculptures and paintings by masters like Da Vinci, Giotto and Michelangelo in a former Medici building. It's also the home of Botticelli's famous Birth of Venus painting. The museum's building in itself is stunning. Timed-entrance tickets are also available and highly recommended to pre-book.
PITTI PALACE & BOBOLI GARDENS: On the other side of the Arno, Palazzo Pitti is one of Florence's largest architectural landmarks of the Renaissance period as well as a major art museum. It houses an impressive collection of artwork but the palace's stunning interiors alone are worth the visit; surrounded by the beautiful Boboli Gardens for a pleasant stroll afterwards. It's an extensive complex and can easily take up a few hours; plan accordingly and pre-book tickets.
PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA & PALAZZO VECCHIO: Just south of Piazza del Duomo is perhaps Florence's second biggest historic square. Piazza della Signoria was once the political centre of the city and today remains one of the busiest hubs. Located just outside Palazzo Vecchio, the historic town hall of Florence is worth visiting for its stunning Renaissance interiors. Just around the corner is the Uffizi Gallery and a little further down, the famous Ponte Vecchio. Its ideal location makes it an easy visit to or from other landmarks.
PALAZZO MEDICI RICCARDI: The first residential palace built for the Medici's and a great insight into the history of one of Italy's most powerful families. The Medici's owned many of Florence's biggest buildings and this is a good place to start if you're interested in their legacy. With Galleria dell'Accademia on one side and Piazza del Duomo on the other, its location makes for a quick and convenient visit in between.
GIUNTI CINEMA ODEON: Set in a Renaissance palace, this bookshop meets cinema theatre is one of Florence's most unique gems. Spread across two floors with dozens of bookshelves on the lower ground and theatre seats just above, set against a backdrop of palatial fixtures. The space is open to visitors and students to work, browse, or while away a few hours in such a charming atmosphere; there's also a café and film screening programme. This is a must see and it's just around the corner from Piazza della Repubblica.
GUCCI GARDEN: Set in an old palace on Piazza della Signoria, Gucci (originally founded in Florence) houses the brand's fashion history and some of its most iconic designs in its very own museum. A fun and immersive homage to the brand, complete with a beautiful gift shop, boutique store, and a restaurant by Massimo Bottura.
MUSEO FERRAGAMO: Another celebration of a Florentine fashion house, Museo Ferragamo showcases the history of the brand, the life of Salvatore Ferragamo and his wonderful creations; with an impressive archive of designs and collections. On the corner of Ponte Santa Trinita and just a short walk to Piazza della Signoria, it's a nice break from Renaissance art.
PONTE VECCHIO: The most famous bridge in Florence, originally the first and only bridge on the Arno as well as the oldest stone bridge in Europe, Ponte Vecchio is a must-see. The bridge houses a large gold market lined with jewellery shops as well as the original 13th century fixtures that used to safe-keep the city's gold. The bridge also connects Palazzo Vecchio to the Pitti Palace if you're planning a visit to the other side, and it's just a few metres away from the Uffizi. Go around sunset to enjoy a beautiful view of the Arno.
PONTE SANTA TRINITA: Florence is abundant with bridges but Ponte Santa Trinita is one of its most scenic ones. Just one bridge down from Ponte Vecchio, it's a great viewpoint of Florence's iconic bridge. You'll also find Museo Ferragamo on one end of Ponte Santa Trinita and Trattoria Cammillo on the other. Especially beautiful for a night stroll.
BUCHETTE DEL VINO: Enjoying a glass of wine from a window is an essential experience in Florence. Their origin dates back to the Bubonic Plague, when the 'buchette del vino' was born for shopkeepers to serve customers with minimal contact. The city is dotted with wine windows all over but many of them are in the more hip neighbourhood of Santo Spirito (including the popular Babae).
BOUTIQUE SHOPS
OFFICINA PROFUMO SANTA MARIA NOVELLA: One of the oldest perfumeries in the world and perhaps the most enchanting shop in Florence, and rightfully considered a landmark of its own. Housed in a former convent pharmacy in Santa Maria Novella, dating back to 1221, this fragrance house is absolutely wonderful with its grand ceilings, old apothecary cabinets and intricately designed perfume bottles. Certainly worth a visit and perfect for gift or souvenir shopping. There are a few boutiques around Florence, but the original one is on Via della Scala.
AQUAFLOR: Another Florentine perfumery house with history, AquaFlor's original atelier is housed in an Antinori palazzo with its very own fragrance laboratory. Lined with antique cabinets, old-world bottles, and precious souvenirs, it's a charming boutique shop steeped in history and tradition; and very unique to Florence. Located between the Uffizi Gallery and Piazza Santa Croce, and a short walk from Gelateria dei Neri.
GINORI 1735: This iconic designer porcelain brand originates in Florence and its flagship store will certainly impress. With most of their iconic collections on display and available for purchase, it's very much a Ginori museum as it is a place to shop. The flagship store is located near Palazzo Antinori and Buca Lapi, and just a short walk to Piazza Santa Maria Novella.
LA MÉNAGERE: A restaurant, bistrot-café and decor shop in one, La Ménagere offers a fun shopping and dining experience in the centre of Florence, just a short walk from Palazzo Medici Riccardi and the Accademia Gallery. There's plenty of dining space inside, a terrace café as well as an entire home-accessories section to browse through. Perfect for an afternoon break in the area.
TRAVELING TIPS
1. Florence is one of Italy's select cities that can be visited really any time of year, making it an ideal destination for spring, summer as well as autumn (avoiding the wetter months of winter).
2. If you're planning on doing extensive sight-seeing in Florence, three to four full days should be enough to cover it all. It's important to purchase timed-entrance tickets to all major sites in advance (especially the Duomo, Galleria Accademia and the Uffizi); this guarantees availability during your stay and saves a lot of time queuing outside.
3. Florence is easy to explore on foot from really anywhere, but it does help to stay somewhere in the centre near one of the major piazzas like San Marco or della Repubblica.
4. If you're staying long enough in Florence, this is an ideal and convenient chance to visit Bologna. It's only a 40-minute train ride with departures running almost every hour of the day.