MILAN, ITALY
Milan is like the second capital of Italy. A metropolis of design, fashion and business with a big-city feel, unlike most Italian cities that have a quieter, town-like atmosphere. Milan enjoys two sides of the coin with as much historic culture as modern, but the contemporary scene is particularly special. There's a wide range of art museums, modern galleries, fashion & design showrooms to entertain any taste. If you're looking for the hustle & bustle of a big city with Italian charm, Milan is the place.
TO STAY
PALAZZO PARIGI: A grand hotel in the charming neighbourhood of Brera, Palazzo Parigi offers a luxurious stay just a stone's throw from the city centre. The hotel is within walking distance to many major landmarks like Pinacoteca di Brera and Piazza Il Duomo, making it an ideal starting point to explore the city on foot; but its location in Brera also means it's nestled away from the louder and busier streets of Milan. The rooms have a Parisian-luxury feel to them, and the garden terrace for breakfast is simply beautiful. A comfortable and convenient stay.
FOOD & DINING
RESTAURANTS
ANTICA TRATTORIA DELLA PESA: Old and traditional with the typical charm of a trattoria, this restaurant is a wonderful experience of Milanese cuisine in a homely atmosphere. Think checkered floors and antique wood, lace curtains, white table cloths, and vested waiters. The menu serves all the best Milanese classics, but the ossobucco here is particularly excellent - fork tender meat in a flavourful broth sauce served with a perfectly cooked saffron risotto. This is one of Milan's most famous dishes and Trattoria Della Pesa is one of the best places to try it. Located near the busy Corso Como and just a short walk from Brera. Reservations recommended for lunch or dinner.
GIACOMO: A classic Milan establishment, Giacomo's group of restaurants all offer a different and unique experience. The original and historic restaurant on via Sottocorno is of course the first to visit. Serving a seafood-focused menu in a gorgeous green dining room, Da Giacomo offers a refined dining experience in a classic but fashionable atmosphere. Just around the corner, the Bistrot is set in an old-world library for a warm and cosy feel; whereas the Rosticceria offers a more informal and homely experience in a trattoria and garden, and the Tabaccheria is perfect for coffee, drinks, and a snack. For a scenic setting, the Arengario rooftop location overlooks the Duomo with a balcony terrace ideal for drinks; and just a short walk from there at Palazzo Reale is the literary Caffé.
OSTERIA DEL BINARI: One of Milan's more 'iconic' restaurants, Osteria Del Binari offers traditional Milanese cuisine in a romantic Art-Deco dining room and a beautiful garden-house type terrace. The menu offers all the Milanese staples in a simple and straightforward way; it's slightly outdated but there's nothing wrong with the food. The real highlight here is the garden atmosphere, especially if the weather is pleasant; make sure to specify a table outside when reserving. Set on the other side of Milan in Navigli, it's a decent choice in the area.
STENDHAL: In the heart of Brera, Stendhal serves some of the best Milanese cuisine in a cosy but refined setting. A deep-green dining room studded with 19th century memorabilia and a gorgeous terrace outdoors, the atmosphere is at once elegant and inviting. The menu offers both Milanese classics as well as a variety of Italian dishes; and anything marked as a 'historic Stendhal dish' is highly recommended. One of their standout creations is the Tonarello Verde al Ragú Bianco (homemade green tonnarello pasta with a creamy white veal mince and a drizzle of truffle oil) - this is absolutely excellent and is alone worth going for. The risotto here is rich and flavourful, with a pronounced taste of saffron and a creamy texture; served as a dish of its own or alongside slow-cooked ossobuco. The veal costoletta is crisp yet tender; light in taste yet generous in portion. For dessert, the Zabaione is deliciously creamy, served with sbrisolona (an almond crumble) for crunch; but the Tiramisu here is not to be missed. A very pleasant and guaranteed dining experience in a charming neighbourhood.
ROVELLO 18: A small, family-run restaurant in Brera with a seasonal menu and an extensive wine collection in a laidback trattoria atmosphere. Rovello 18 specialises in simple food with a gourmet take; where all dishes are inspired by traditional Italian food, highlighting select quality ingredients and a more contemporary style of cooking. The menu changes often but two of their famous staples are spaghetti cacio e pepe and veal chop Milanese; and of course Zabaione for dessert. Perfect for an intimate lunch or dinner on one of the busiest streets in Brera. They have a limited number of tables, so reservations are recommended.
CAFFES & APERITIVO
GIACOMO CAFFÉ: Just a short walk from Piazza Il Duomo, Giacomo's Caffe in Palazzo Reale is a charming little place for a morning coffee or afternoon break in the area. They also serve a breakfast menu from their pasticceria as well as small dishes for lunch.
MARCHESI 1824: A historic pastry shop and one of the oldest in Milan, Marchesi 1824 is an 'haute patisserie' with only four boutiques in the world - three of them in Milan. Their shops are gorgeously decorated in 18th century Art Deco furnishings, their signature pistachio-green wallpaper, and antique displays of pastel-coloured cakes Marie-Antoinette style. The original shop sits on Via Santa Maria alla Porto, with two more modern and fashionable locations in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele above Prada and one on Via Monte Napoleone.
BAR LUCE: Designed by Wes Anderson in his signature style, Bar Luce looks and feels like a café straight out of his films. Candy-coloured interiors with a retro-diner feel, Bar Luce serves cakes and sandwiches with a side of nostalgia. Located at Fondazione Prada, it's an ideal place to stop before or after your visit to the museum. A dream space if you're a fan of Wes Anderson.
CAMPARINO IN GALLERIA: An iconic bar to enjoy aperitivo hour in Milan. Named after one of the city's most popular liquers, Camparino in Galleria Vittoria Emanuele is one of the best places to try the classic Negroni or any Campari based cocktail. Its location at the Galleria means it's always busy, but it is an exciting atmosphere to sit down for drinks and people-watching.
VERO GELATERIA: There are plenty of gelaterias around Milan, but Vero (previously named Oggi) is one to seek. A dense yet smooth consistency with a creamy, velvety texture; with all natural flavours pronounced in taste. Served at the ideal ready-to-eat temperature, it's perfect from scoop to cup. If you like a softer gelato, this one is for you. Located on the busy Corso Garibaldi near Brera, just a short walk from Stendhal or Rovello 18.
PLACES TO VISIT & THINGS TO DO
PIAZZA DEL DUOMO: In the historic centre of Milan, crowned by the famous Duomo, the main square is a great place to start exploring the city. It's surrounded by other major landmarks on all sides and within walking distance to popular neighbourhoods like Brera and Monte Napoleone. The cathedral requires pre-purchased tickets for entrance; the queues can be long but they move fairly quickly and it is certainly worth the wait.
GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II: To the left of Il Duomo, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele is one of Milan's most iconic landmarks and Italy's oldest shopping gallery. A beautiful, light-filled arcade lined with luxury boutiques and cafés; its stunning 19th-century architecture and glass ceiling alone is worth visiting. Stop for a sweet treat at Marchesi 1824 or an afternoon aperitivo at Camparino. Connecting the Duomo on one end and Teatro alla Scala on the other, it also makes for an ideal stroll between two landmarks. Visit in the morning as well as later at night for two completely different atmospheres.
GALLERIE D'ITALIA: Just across the Duomo and the Galleria in Piazza della Scala, this art museum displays a collection of 19th-20th century paintings. Housed in a beautiful old bank, Gallerie d'Italia's setting is just as impressive as its artwork. It's also just around the corner from Teatro all Scala if you're planning a visit.
PINACOTECA DI BRERA: Considered the main public gallery in Milan, Pinacoteca di Brera houses a large collection of paintings and artwork from the 13th to 20th centuries. Set in a palazzo with a spacious courtyard, it's a wonderful escape for an hour or two in the heart of the bustling Brera neighbourhood. Tickets are available on arrival with almost no wait time.
THE LAST SUPPER: Da Vinci's mural masterpiece and one of the most famous paintings in the world is still located in its original place, on the dining room wall of the Santa Maria delle Grazie convent. Tickets can sell out weeks if not months in advance, so pre-booking as soon as possible is highly recommended.
FONDAZIONE PRADA: This contemporary art museum is one of Milan's most popular cultural hubs. Housed in a unique complex of buildings, Fondazione Prada offers an immersive experience throughout. Alongside its permanent collection are temporary exhibits/experiences, some of which are interactive. Make sure to visit Wes Anderson's Bar Luce as well just outside the museum. It's a little far out from the city centre but worth the visit if you're into modern art.
MUDEC: Dedicated to interdisciplinary arts, MUDEC is another popular hub for contemporary art, culture and community. There's always a unique programme of temporary exhibitions to check out and the museum space itself is interesting to see. Located near Navigli on the other side of Milan's city centre for a quick visit in the area.
VILLA NECCHI CAMPIGLIO: This former family residence is a testament to Milan's prominence in design & architecture. Built in the 1930s for the Necchi Campiglio family, today the villa stands as a landmark of its own. With gorgeous daytime areas on the ground floor (including a grand salon and dining room, library, office, and smoking room); private bedrooms, bathrooms and changing rooms on the first floor; and a spacious garden oasis that nestles the villa away from the outside world. There's so much to see in every room. The villa is a wonderful view of Italian Art-Deco in situ and a look into the life of an aristocratic family. A must see in Milan.
SHOPPING
GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II: One of the oldest shopping galleries in the world, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele is a beautiful Renaissance arcade lined with luxury boutiques and brands, as well as bars and cafés. Ideally situated in the heart of the city, adjacent to Piazza del Duomo.
BRERA: A charming neighbourhood with character and atmosphere, Brera's cobble-stoned streets, boutique shops, and antique facades makes it a wonderful area to explore where one alley leads onto another like a small maze.There are also plenty of restaurants and cafés for a quick afternoon break or lunch in the area, and it's just a short walk to other landmarks like Pinacoteca di Brera, Museo Poldi Pozzoli, and Teatro alla Scala.
10 CORSO COMO: A concept store in a trendy area, 10 Corso Como displays more contemporary and fashion-forward brands as well as home accessories. They also have a café next door for a quick drink or bite.
TELERIE SPADARI: For traditional and tailored luxury, Telerie Spadari is a classic institution for fabrics. Everything from table and bed linen, towels, and nightwear is hand tailored using the finest textiles; with a big display of ready-made items as well as different fabrics to customise. Just a short walk from Galleria Vittorio Emanuele.