COPENHAGEN, DENMARK
Known as one of the happiest cities in the world, Copenhagen lives up to its reputation in many ways. In spite of its cold weather the city is made warm by its friendly people, cosy places, and a contagious feeling of joy. Hygge is a very real concept in Copenhagen, and you'll easily feel it in its many warm cafés, spacious galleries, or just strolling through the streets. Copenhagen is a hub for art, fashion, and design; and some of the world's best dining scenes. There's much to do and see here, as well as a great chance to take leisure in slow mornings and relaxed evenings. Danish culture is amiable and welcoming, and totally fuss-free; people are so polite and easy-going you'll feel right at home. Leave your troubles and responsibilities behind, and find your hygge in Copenhagen.
TO STAY
HOTEL SANDERS: A boutique hotel of casual luxury and simple elegance, Sanders brings together the best of Scandinavian design and hospitality for an unforgettable stay. Located in the heart of the city, the hotel is surrounded by many of Copenhagen's most famous sites and restaurants. The area is busy and lively without disturbing Sanders' unique sense of tranquility. Sanders' interiors combine retro-elegance and Scandinavian minimalism, creating a hygge-worthy atmosphere in a comfortable space. The hotel is small and intimate, you'll feel right at home. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in The Kitchen, snacks and drinks at the Tata's cocktail bar or the Living Room; you can also enjoy a warm evening by the fireplace in the Courtyard, or a sunny afternoon on the rooftop Conservatory. Among the hotel's personalised services are bedroom massages, guided runs around the city, and bicycles to borrow. The staff team is jovial, attentive, and welcoming, providing a curated experience for their guests; they'll know you by name and ask about your day. Sanders is the perfection foundation for your hygge experience.
FOOD & DINING
EXPERIMENTAL DINING:
RESTAURANT BARR: Casual-experimental Nordic cuisine
Barr is one of the most upcoming names on Copenhagen's dining scene. Located by the city's iconic waterfront, inside none other than noma's original home, Barr offers a casual but experiential take on traditional Nordic food. Founded by noma's team, the sister restaurant upholds the brilliance of a Michelin-star restaurant in a more relaxed and comfortable space. Some items on the menu are seasonal but you can expect staple classics as well. Everything here is excellent. Look out for these particular dishes if available: Lumpfish Roe, served with a Belgian waffle and sour cream (a light and fresh appetiser); the Schnitzel, served with an addictive butter sauce (Barr's deservedly most famous item and one of Copenhagen's best); and the extraordinary glazed Ribs, the meat is so tender and succulent it glides off the bone. Book in advance for lunch or dinner, and look forward to an excellent experience of Copenhagen's evolving cuisine.
*Tip: If you're still there by closing time, politely ask for a tour inside noma's very first kitchen! Unforgettable.
KADEAU: Formal experimental Nordic cuisine - 1 Michelin Star
Located in Christianshavn in a discreet, almost unidentifiable building (with nothing but a tiny doorbell and nameplate), Kadeau takes you away from the city outside into a world of cultivated flavour. Dining at Kadeau is a real treat; a journey full of gorgeous plates and innovative dishes. Inspired by specialties from the island of Bornholm, the menu brings together a variety of flavours brilliantly and harmoniously. The presentation of the food is in itself a work of art, and the service is a performance. Don't be intimidated by the restaurant's quiet and formal atmosphere, this only adds to the experience of the food. The team closely cultivates their ingredients and works with each one to bring out the most of its flavour. You can order a half or full wine pairing alongside. Expect a long set-menu and at least 3 hours to dine. It's an expensive restaurant but very much worth it. Book in advance.
TRADITIONAL CUISINE:
AAMANNS 1921: Refined smørrebrød
Here you'll find some of Copenhagen's most reputable smørrebrød; this is a great lunch location in the centre and a chance to try really amazing open-faced sandwiches. The restaurant is small but spacious, with high ceilings, minimal design, and lots of window light. The atmosphere is casual and relaxing, and the food is excellent. Order two pieces (the smoked salmon and chicken salad are delicious); or the tasting menu for a larger variety in smaller portions. Skip the sweet desserts and order the cheese smørrebrød instead. The restaurant welcomes walk-ins but book in advance just in case. Aamanns also has two other locations, the more casual Establissement and the Deli for quick-grabs and take-away.
SCHONNEMANN: Traditional Danish food & smørrebrød
The best place for traditional Danish lunch. Schonnemann is one of the city's oldest and most loved restaurants; dating back to 1877, the restaurant upholds its reputation for serving some of the very best smørrebrød in Copenhagen. Look forward to an authentic and nostalgic experience of Nordic culture in a tavern-like space. The menu features over 110 different options, with a variety of fish, meat, chicken, and vegetables all served on rye bread. Order 2-4 pieces, depending on how hungry you are. The fish options are particularly excellent. The Fried Fillet of Plaice with remoulade is an unmissable specialty here. They also have a large selection of beer, schnapps, and aquavit to try - ask for the house specialities. For dessert, try the fried camembert with bitter blackcurrant jam. The place is always crowded with tourists and locals alike, so definitely book a table and show up hungry. They have two seating slots: 11:30-14:00, and 14:15-17:00. Do not miss this place!
CASUAL & TRENDY DINING:
PLUTO: Family style dining & fusion cuisine
A casual and trendy restaurant in central Borgergade, Pluto attracts younger crowds with its food-to-share, creative cocktails, and lively atmosphere. The menu consists of snacks and charcuterie, as well as cold and hot dishes; order a variety of small & large plates to share. To start, the Mangalica Ham Waffle served with manchego creme is spectacular, not to be missed; the Pork Sliders are also a specialty here - juicy, tender meat in soft burger buns (get Mac n' Cheese on the side if you're hungry); and the Foie Gras terrine served with apricot jam & toast is pretty good. To follow, the Lobster Roll is tasty but not particularly special; the Codfish served in a creamy base of potato, buttermilk, and pickled red onion is more noteworthy. For dessert, try the oat biscuits with bitter rhubarb sauce on a base of whipped creme fraiche - an excellent contrast of flavours for a satisfying finish. Take a look at their house cocktails as well! Walk-ins are welcome but most likely to be seated at the communal table, so book in advance.
MADKLUBBEN RESTAURANT GROUP: Bistro-style dining
The Madklubben Group has several restaurants around Copenhagen, each location unique in style & menu with one thing in common: high-end quality for affordable prices. Most of the Madklubben restaurants are big on steak, but you'll find other options as well. Bistro Royal is one of their particularly notable establishments, just a short walk from the iconic Nyhavn. A retro-style diner with white tiles and booth tables, serving all-day breakfast options, salads, burgers, and a dinner menu. Go with a big appetite for lunch and try the house speciality Bofsandwich (a brioche-bun burger served with remoulade sauce and warm gravy; very satisfying and filling). For something lighter, go for a salad, the Fillet of Plaice, or Steak Tartare and a side of fries. Check out more Madklubben restaurants here.
BÆST: Italian plates & pizza
A trendy spot located in the lively neighbourhood of Nørrebro, Bæst brings together the comfort of Italian food and the innovation of the Nordic kitchen. The restaurant focuses on organic and house-cultivated ingredients; they make everything from scratch for guaranteed quality. Their flour is fermented and baked in a wood-fire oven built in Naples, the mozzarella is made from local organic milk and hand-stretched daily, and the charcuterie is cured in-house. Start off with a mix of cheese and cold cuts to share. The Straciatella is particularly unmissable; it's super light and creamy, and pairs excellently with their home-made sourdough bread (which is some of the best you'll try in Copenhagen, baked fresh at Mirabelle next door). As for the pizza, they have a good variety to choose from; and they'll all taste great thanks to the house-fermented dough and organic cheese. Definitely book in advance; the place gets really crowded and the wait-time for a table can go up to anything between 30 minutes to two hours.
BRUS: Casual bar
Located just across from Mirabelle Bakery and Bæst in Nørrebro, BRUS is a beer-dedicated pub with its own in-house brewery. Set in a former iron warehouse with a bar inside and bench tables outside, the cool and casual atmosphere at BRUS attracts youthful crowds that spill out onto the street. A great place to go for quality beer, casual bites, and a fun hangout. Go early for drinks and move on to Bæst for pizza.
JOHN'S HOTDOG DELI: Self-serve diner
Hotdogs (pølser) are a classic Danish street-snack; you'll find hotdog trucks on every corner in the city, but this deli is a local's favourite and really the only pølser experience you'll need. Located in the Meatpacking District, John's Hotdog Deli is small, rustic, and unassuming; but you can expect a decent, juicy 'dog out of it. Pick your sausage and add up to 10 different toppings of your choosing - the best part is you get to build it yourself. They also serve fries on the side and hearty bofsandwiches. A decent and satisfying quick-grab.
TORVEHALLERNE: Food market & stalls
This is one of Copenhagen's most famous food markets near Nørreport Station, housing over 60 different stalls of produce; here you'll find anything between fruits, vegetables, and cheese,, meat, fish, imported snacks & tea blends, baked goods, hand-made products, organic skincare, etc. There are also several food stands for quick-grabs. Torvehallerne is a great place for grocery shopping, food tasting, and just a fun time looking around at the different stalls. Open every day (hours might differ).
CAFÉS & BAKERIES:
SANDERS KITCHEN & CONSERVATORY:
At Sanders you'll find comfort and quality in every corner, and the food is nothing short of it. The Kitchen and rooftop Conservatory are open to guests/walk-ins all day. The Kitchen serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in an informal and intimate space (literally designed as a kitchen). Come early for breakfast: the croissant here is excellent and the scrambled eggs on toast is delicious. The Conservatory is particularly worth visiting - a glasshouse space on the rooftop with gorgeous interiors and lots of window light, this is a great spot for drinks & snacks in the afternoon.
APOLLO BAR: Café & cantine
Tucked away in Charlottenberg Slot by the iconic Nyhavn waterfront, Apollo Bar is a cool and trendy spot frequented by locals. They serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Come early for breakfast, or drinks & snacks in the afternoon. Their croissant is one of the best I've tried in Copenhagen - flakey and crispy on the outside, packed with soft and buttery dough on the inside. Also try their famous Ricotta & Blueberry Toast - really delicious.
ATELIER SEPTEMBER: Coffeeshop
One of Copenhagen's popular "hipster" spots, Atelier September attracts young crowds in search of good coffee and avocado toasts. You'll find both here. It's overhyped but pleasant. The place is simple and minimal, and feels like a cosy communal space. Located in Gothersgade, just a few minutes away from Nyhavn.
RAVAGE: Casual French restaurant & bar
Just a few minutes walk from Nyhavn, Ravage is a casual French restaurant that overlooks the famous Kongens Nytorv (King's New Square). If you're looking for a quick lunch or drink in the area, this is a good option. They have a nice little setup on the sidewalk, like a real French bistro. Grab a table outside and enjoy the view. The food menu has a good variety of plates. The Steak Tartare is fantastic - the meat is fresh and tender, tossed in several toppings like ketchup, mustard, horseradish, capers, etc. The thick cut fries here are also really great. It's a pleasant vibe when the street is packed with people enjoying after-work drinks, but if you want to sit down to eat go before 4pm.
MEYERS BAGERI: Danish bakery
Known as one of Copenhagen's very best Danish bakeries, Meyers actually lives up to its reputation. Everything in store is baked fresh in the morning and served right off the cooling rack. If you're in search for the best cinnamon roll (kanelsnegle), the one at Meyers is an excellent contender - soft, moist, and packed with flavour. The croissant here is also unmissable! It's buttery and doughy, and perfectly crisp on the outside. Try the Tebirkes here as well - a Danish poppy seed roll with a sugary, buttery filling. Go in the morning and grab some pastries to go! You'll find several locations around the city.
MIRABELLE: Bistro & bakery
In the hip and trendy neighbourhood of Nørrebro, Mirabelle is another popular bakery among locals. Most known for its carefully fermented dough, locally-sourced ingredients, and organic pastries. The sourdough bread here is really excellent - it's dense and moist and carries a pleasant taste from its gentle fermentation. The pastries here are pretty good, but a little underwhelming compared to other bakeries - the croissant is soft and airy, with more pocketed layers than buttery dough inside; and the pain au chocolat is alright. You can also come here for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The seating inside is small and cosy. And right next door is the sister restaurant Bæst!
SKT PEDERS BAGERI: Danish bakery
This is known to be Copenhagen's oldest bakery, established in 1652 and still attracting visitors with its sweet confections. They make a variety of baked goods like croissants, pain au chocolat, brioche, savoury rolls, etc. Their cinnamon rolls, however, are made exclusively on Wednesdays and this is when the bakery is most crowded. The pastries here have a very traditional, homemade taste - like something out of grandma's kitchen. The cinnamon roll was sadly disappointing - the dough was a little dry and topped with an overly-sweet glaze, nothing to go out of your way for. Come here just to see and try the oldest bakery in the city, but in terms of taste you'll find better elsewhere.
CONDITORI LA GLACE: Bakery & dessert shop
Another Copenhagen classic, established 1870, La Glace is an elegant and traditional confectionery just off of Strøget. Keep an eye open for it if you're strolling down the street. Come here for a warm drink and an indulgent slice (or two) of cake. The cakes are all creamy and moist, and pack a nice variety of flavours. The classic décor inside resembles an old Viennese café, making it a cosy and delightful spot for an afternoon break.
PLACES TO VISIT & THINGS TO DO
NYHAVN: If you've seen any photos of Copenhagen, then this place needs no introduction. The Nyhavn waterfront is perhaps Copenhagen's most iconic place, with a boat-packed canal and a backdrop of colourful buildings; it's a beautiful scene. Crowded with locals and tourists alike, Nyhavn is a lively place to be in the afternoon - grab a drink and enjoy sunset by the canal.
TIVOLI GARDENS: An amusement park and pleasure garden in central Copenhagen, this is one of the city's biggest and most popular attractions. Busy with locals and tourists of all ages, Tivoli Gardens is a delightful place to spend the day (open morning to midnight). There are several amusement rides and roller coasters, as well as restaurants and food hall; the park itself is a beautiful space filled with colourful flowers and places to lounge around in the garden. Go in the morning if it's sunny or later at night to see the lights.
NY CARLSBERG GLYPTOTEKET: Right across from Tivoli Gardens is the Carlsberg Glyptoteket, a sculpture museum. The museum displays a large collection of ancient sculptures, and the architecture of the building itself is admirable. There's also an indoors garden-café for a quick break. Open all week except Mondays.
CHRISTIANSBORG PALACE: A short walk from the Glyptoteket, Christiansborg Palace is a government building that houses the Danish Parliament, Supreme Court, and Ministry of State. A large part of the palace is open to visitors, where you'll see the Royal Reception Rooms, the Great Hall containing the queen's tapestries, the Throne Room, Library, and more. Some of the rooms are really gorgeous - the visit shouldn't take more than a relaxed hour. Open all week.
BOTANISK HAVE: This botanical garden is one of the city's most beloved attractions - a large, gorgeous glasshouse filled from floor to ceiling with plants and trees. Surrounding the glasshouse is a spacious garden-park that overlooks a small lake. A lovely place to visit when the weather is nice and sunny. It's very hot and humid inside, though, so wear something light. Nearby here you'll also find the SMK Museum and Torvehallerne Food Market.
STATENS MUSEUM FOR KUNST: The Danish national gallery is one of Copenhagen's largest art museums, housing both Danish and foreign works. The collection dates back to the 14th century all the way up to the present. Expect to see European art masters such as Rembrandt and Picasso as well as contemporary exhibitions. Located within walking distance from Botanisk Have. Open all week except Mondays.
ROYAL LIBRARY: The Danish Royal Library is the largest one in the Nordic region, housing hundreds if not thousands of precious books and prints. Nicknamed the 'Black Diamond' for its black granite cladding and irregular angles, the building's design is modern and polished. It's a must-see for all design enthusiasts. Located by the waterfront on the islet of Slotsholmen (same area as Christiansborg Palace).
RUNDETAARN: Built in the 17th century as an astronomical observatory, Rundetaarn is now visited for a panoramic view of the city. Its spiral ramp is also recognised by many design-enthusiasts for its "minimal" style. You'll easily come across it if you're strolling down Købmagergade, a main pedestrian shopping street.
LOUISIANA ART MUSEUM: This is definitely one of Copenhagen's most famous attractions, despite being farther away from the city (approx. 45 mins by train). The museum houses an interesting collection of modern art, but the location itself is what's worth the trip. Located by the Louisiana channel in a wonderful 1950s villa, the museum is a major example of Danish modernist architecture - horizontal, understated, and merged with its surroundings. It's a wonderfully soothing place. You might not think it worth the trip, but it really is.
FREDERIKSBORG PALACE: Not to be confused with Frederiksberg Palace, which is closer to the centre, Frederiksborg Palace is a palatial complex located in Hillerød (approx. 45 mins by car from Copenhagen). It was once a residence to the Danish royal family and now a major historical attraction. Much of its architecture is really beautiful, especially the Church; and it's an interesting look into Danish history. But if you're not that big on historical sightseeing, you can save yourself the trip.
SHOPPING:
STRØGET STREET: This is Copenhagen's most famous pedestrian street and the hub of shopping. Strøget is lined with high-end boutiques as well as budget-friendly shops, specialty stores, and cafés. It runs through a large part of the city, there's no doubt you'll end up there somehow.
ILLUM & MAGASIN DU NORD: Two of Copenhagen's largest department stores, both located on Strøget. Illum carries high-end and luxury fashion, whereas Magasin Du Nord is more casual. Both department stores also have impressive food halls. Open everyday.
GOLDEN AGE & TIME'S UP VINTAGE: For vintage and second-hand shopping, these are just two of many stores around Copenhagen. Golden Age (in the Nørrebro district) carries 80s-90s street fashion and Time's Up Vintage (closer to the centre, near Nørreport) carries high-end designer pieces.
WOOD WOOD & STORM: Both located in the city centre near Kongens Nytorv, Wood Wood and Storm are frequented by younger crowds for their contemporary and avant-garde fashion. Wood Wood is a Copenhagen-based brand that embodies the cool and laidback style of the city; and at Storm you'll find a variety of modern designers such as Off-White and Alexander Wang.
TRAVELING TIPS
1. Visit during spring or summer! Copenhagen copes well with the cold, but the city is something else entirely in warmer, sunnier weather. It's happy and vibrant, and everything is more enjoyable.
2. Rent a bicycle. This is something you cannot miss out on in Copenhagen. Cycling here is safe and easy, and the most popular way of getting around. And it's fun!
3. Feast on pastries! Copenhagen has amazing bakeries and delicious Danish specialties. I've had croissants here that were (dare I say) better than the ones I had in Paris.
4. Book one or two experimental restaurants, and visit a food market. There's been some really exciting developments in the food scene here lately on both ends of the spectrum.
5. Try to plan activities/places to visit by area or neighbourhood. Copenhagen is pretty small, you can walk or cycle to most places; but some of these places might be on different islets or parts in the city, so it's more convenient to plan by proximity.
6. Look up exhibitions or events during your visit. Copenhagen usually has a few cool things going on, be it a concert, a design expo, or a food market.
7. Be polite and friendly, and take things slow! People in Copenhagen are super laidback and easy-going. Enjoy it.