ROME ITALY
Rome is one of those places that are so easily and effortlessly enjoyable. A truly eternal city with so much character and charm; laden with history, full of culture, home to some of Italy's best food. If it's an active visit you're after or a leisurely holiday, Rome can offer both. Its abundance can be overwhelming but that's also what makes it so wonderful, so lively, and so endlessly entertaining.
TO STAY
Rome is a fairly large city and can be overwhelming to navigate, which is why staying in the historic centre can make first-time visits a lot easier to plan. It means you're within walking distance to most sites and can easily tour the city on foot.
GRAND HOTEL PLAZA: In the heart of the historic centre on Via del Corso, the Grand Hotel Plaza puts you right in the middle of it all. Between Rome's major sites and one of its largest shopping streets, it's an ideal launchpad into the city no matter which direction you take. Within walking distance of Piazza di Spagna and Piazza del Popolo on one side, Piazza Venezia on the other, and surrounded by an excellent array of caffes & restaurants. This is really the best area to stay if you want to be within reach of everything.
RESIDENZE NAPOLEON III: This 16th-century private palazzo is a luxurious escape in the heart of the city, just around the corner from Via del Corso. What seems an inconspicuous building is actually a large residential palace belonging to Rome's renowned Ruspoli family, sectioned into private apartments. Residenze Napoleon III is offered as a serviced hotel-apartment that can take up to four guests; including the Napoleon suite and the Blue Room upstairs, a spacious reception and sitting area, as well as a small kitchenette. Amenities are minimal but adequate, including daily turn-down service and only in-room breakfast if requested. It's wonderfully grand and a truly unique experience to stay in an old residential palace, and right in the centre of Rome.
PLACES TO VISIT
Rome is one of the most historically-laden cities in the world and its most famous landmarks are not unknown to anyone. If you're visiting for the first time, there are obvious must-see's like the Colosseum and Pantheon, the Vatican & Sistine Chapel, Fontana di Trevi, and the likes; but below is an additional list of places worth visiting.
PIAZZA DELLA ROTONDA: This is an ideal place to start touring Rome on foot, where the Pantheon is located. It's surrounded by several sites and within walking distance to other must-see areas. Start at the Pantheon and branch out to the side streets; from there you can walk west to Piazza Navona, east to Chiesa Sant Ignazio and the Trevi Fountain, or even down to Campo dei Fiori. Before venturing too far, stop by the famous Caffe Sant'Eustachio for coffee & pastries or grab a sandwich from the traditional L'Antico Salumeria or the popular All'Antico Vinaio.
CHIESA SANT IGNAZIO: Just around the corner from Piazza della Rotonda, Chiesa Sant Ignazio is one of Rome's most beautiful and elaborate Baroque churches. It's also within walking distance to Fontana di Trevi, the Pantheon, and Galleria Doria Pamphili.
GALLERIA DORIA PAMPHILI: Housing one of Rome's largest art collections (with works by Rubens, Caravaggio, Titian to name a few), this palatial gallery is truly worth visiting; not only for the impressive artworks but the 16th-century palace itself is beautifully made up of large rooms with ornate furniture and tapestries and a stunning gallery-hall lined with elaborate frescoes & mirrors. Look for the entrance on Via del Corso.
PIAZZA DI SPAGNA & VIA DEL CORSO: The iconic Spanish Steps and the fashionable Via del Corso need no introduction but they're included as a reference-point when navigating your way around the city. Consider this the nave of Rome's historical district as it really is the easiest area to go back & forth to; whether you're walking back from the Pantheon or up to Villa Borghese, shopping around or making lunch plans, it's a lively area you can easily stroll through and find something to do.
PIAZZA DEL POPOLO & VILLA BORGHESE: At the top of Via del Corso is Piazza del Popolo, where Rome's oldest obelisk sits. From there, climb up to Villa Borghese; spend the afternoon strolling through its gorgeous gardens and admiring views of Rome from above.
PIAZZA NAVONA: Another one of Rome's largest and most important squares, Piazza Navona is a picturesque space lined with beautiful old buildings, a large fountain in the centre and the gorgeous Chiesa Sant'Agnese. It's just around the corner from Caffe Sant'Eustachio and within walking distance to Campo dei Fiori.
CAMPO DEI FIORI: Just south of Piazza Navona, Campo dei Fiori hosts a bustling produce market in the centre of a historical square. It's not really the market square that's remarkable but the surrounding area and its rustic charm. For lunch or a bite to go, grab some baked goods from the longstanding Forno Campo de Fiori or walk down to the famous Roscioli for one of Rome's best deli experiences.
SANT ANDREA DELLA VALLE: Around the corner from Piazza Campo Dei Fiori, this 17th-century Baroque church has a soaring frescoed dome that's worth seeing. It sits right in the middle between Caffe Sant'Eustachio and the Roscioli shops, so it's an ideal stop from one to the other.
TRASTEVERE: Known as Rome's hippest neighbourhood, Trastevere is a fun area to walk around and find some place to eat & drink. It's almost always busy and lively; in the evening most restaurants are full and at night you'll find bars spilling out onto the streets, crowds strolling around, music performers and the likes. For dinner, avoid the many tourist traps and look for the traditional trattorias; Da Enzo or Da Teo are good options.
FOOD & DINING
TRATTORIAS & RISTORANTES
When in Rome, there's a few traditional dishes and four essential pastas (cacio e pepe, carbonara, alla gricia, amatraciana) to look for. Here's a selection of where to find some of the best versions of each.
FELICE A TESTACCIO: One of the quintessential pasta places in Rome. This is where to go for some of, if not the best Cacio e Pepe and Carbonara. Chewy tonnarelli pasta tossed table-side with sharp pecorino and smoky cracked pepper; homemade spaghetti in a rich and silky sauce with crisp guanciale. Both are absolutely flawless here. Serving a full menu of other traditional dishes like baked lamb, meatballs, and saltimbocca, Felice a Testaccio perfects hearty Roman cuisine in a modern setting. Reservations are a must; call days in advance to avoid disappointment.
LA MATRICIANA 1870: An old and elegant family-owned trattoria, La Matriciana has an undefinable Roman charm that makes it so inviting. White-cloth tables adorned with antique silverware, soft lights, black-vested waiters; old wine bottles on display and a diverse menu of traditional dishes. The atmosphere is simply wonderful. True to its name, La Matriciana serves one of Rome's most famed Bucatini Amatriciana; and it's an excellent place to try this Roman classic. The perfect secondi to follow is the Polpette in Umido (veal meatballs in a thick tomato sauce) - this is another Roman classic and La Matriciana's meatballs are fork-tender and the sauce is bread-mop worthy. Open for lunch and dinner; reservations are recommended.
PIPERNO: Tucked away in the Jewish district, in a secluded corner between alleys, Piperno is a gem of a restaurant. Small and intimate with a pleasant quietness about it, it feels like a world away from the bustling city. Elegant and high-end with none of the fuss or pretence of fine dining, Piperno serves refined Jewish-Roman cuisine. Classics like Carciofi alla Guidia and Saltimbocca di Vitello are excellent, among a nice selection of pastas, meats and fish options. Open most days for dinner and for lunch on Saturdays and Sundays; reservations required. Also in the area, stop by Pasticceria Boccione for some traditional Jewish sweets.
ROSCIOLI: Owned by one of the most reputable culinary families, the Roscioli shops are considered landmarks in Rome's food scene. There are four locations to look for - Salumeria Con Cucina (deli & restaurant), the Rimessa (wine-bar), Il Forno (for baked goods, pastries, pizzas, etc), and Caffé Pasticceria (coffee & pastries). Book a table at the salumeria-restaurant for a taste of some of the finest Italian ingredients and produce of the highest quality; with over 300 types of cheese and 150 different cured meats, homemade pasta, and a cellar just short of 3,000 wine labels. The dining experience here is a playground of flavour; there's an entire section on the menu dedicated to mozzarella di bufala and another just for hams. Order a selection of cheeses, cold cuts, and pastas to try. Reservations are essential because they're almost always booked.
DA ENZO AL 29: A small rustic trattoria in Trastevere for simple Roman cuisine. Da Enzo serves a nice selection of appetisers and main dishes, but the pasta here (specifically the Cacio e Pepe and Carbonara) is the main attraction. To start, the creamy Straciatella di Bufala is not to be missed. Now Trastevere is full of tourist-trap trattorias, and Da Enzo has become almost completely crowded with travellers, but it still is one of the best places in the area. They don't take reservations, so prepare to queue for a table; you can make the first round of seating if you go at least a half hour before opening.
FLAVIO AL VELAVEVODETTO: Tucked away on a quiet street on Monte Testaccio, this casual osteria has become a popular go-to for homey Roman fare. The menu features typical pastas and main dishes, and they're all equally good; neither remarkable nor disappointing. The Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe and Rigatoni Carbonara are most recommended here; second-best to Felice's and Da Enzo's. The food is hearty, portions are generous, and the crowd is a nice mix of both locals and travellers. They also have a second location in Piazza dei Quitri.
IL VERO ALFREDO: For a taste of the original Fettuccine Alfredo, this is the place to go. Just off of Via del Corso, Il Vero Alfredo is one of only two restaurants in Rome that serve this pasta (the other being its sister restaurant, Alfredo Scrofa). Il Vero certainly does cater to tourists & travellers because of its reputation, but the restaurant maintains much of its Italian character. The Fettuccine Alfredo here is genuinely delicious - silky, homemade pasta rigourously and ceremonially tossed at your table in a generous bed of cheese; a milder version of Cacio e Pepe. It's not essential, but it's a chance to try the most authentic version of this world-famous pasta. Reservations recommended.
CAFFES & BAKERIES
CIAMPINI: A classic and iconic bistrot-bar in the heart of Rome's historic centre, just off of Via del Corso and near Piazza di Spagna. Enjoy an early morning coffee & pastry among stylish locals, a quick afternoon break, or a casual lunch at either the bar or bistrot (just across from each other). The coffee is excellent and the gelato is some of the best in Rome. Ciampini is a must-do.
CAFFE GRECO: Among designer boutiques of Via dei Condotti, the antique Caffe Greco is another Roman icon. Open since 1760, it's the oldest bar in Rome and now considered somewhat of a landmark. Serving coffee, pastries, and small bites all day, it's a classic spot for a break amidst shopping or site-seeing, just around the corner from Piazza di Spagna.
CAFFE SANT EUSTACHIO: Coffee culture in Rome is a serious affair and there are a few name-places to get a proper taste. Caffe Sant Eustachio is one of them - their house-roasted beans are supposedly blended with water from an ancient aqueduct. Just around the corner from the Pantheon, it's a small place with just a few tables outside. Take a seat and enjoy one of their signature drinks with something sweet, or a quick one at the bar inside. If their nougatine-crusted cannoli is on display, these are not to be missed.
CAFFE TAZZA D'ORO: Another famous bar for a taste of proper Italian coffee, just across the Pantheon. Most famed for the hundreds of espresso shots lined up at the bar and their signature granita di caffe; they also make an excellent caffe crema. It's certainly more of a tourist site now, but it's a decent place for a quick coffee near the Pantheon.
ALL'ANTICO VINAIO: For lunch-on-the-go near the Pantheon, All'Antico Vinaio makes a selection of killer panini by order. A hip and modern take on the Italian sandwich bar. The freshly-baked focaccia is both soft and crisp, and generously filled with quality ingredients; meat and vegetarian options available, or totally customised. Their signature pistachio cream is an essential add-on. If you can't decide what to have, 'El Paradiso' is excellent - mortadella, stracciatella, & pistachio cream. There's usually a queue at lunch time so go a little before or after peak hours. Take it up a notch and settle somewhere on the side or back of the Pantheon, enjoy your panini with a view.
L'ANTICA SALUMERIA: Just across the Pantheon, L'Antica Salumeria is one of the oldest gourmet shops in Rome. An old-fashioned delicatessen with hanging hams and cured meats, a large selection of cheese, a wine cellar and a few seats in the back; in the front, a display of traditional sweets and a white-coat butcher making fresh panini for lunch. A classic salumeria experience and a good option for a quick bite in the area.
ANTICO FORNO ROSCIOLI: For a taste of Roscioli's reputable quality and produce, Antico Forno serves a delicious selection of baked goods & pastries, and some of the best Roman pizza al taglio (square slices on a thick focaccia-like base). The pesto-burrata pizza is amazing. There's usually a queue and just a few bar stools outside, but the service is quick and the food is rewarding. An excellent lunch option near Campo dei Fiori.
PASTICCERIA BOCCIONE: As the oldest surviving bakery in the Jewish district, Boccione is a revered landmark of the neighbourhood and an important experience of its history. Serving traditional Jewish-Roman cakes & tarts, wrapped in old-fashioned paper & string by true Italian nonnas. Most famous for their cherry-ricotta tart (which quickly sells out) and pizza ebraica (a sweet bread filled with candied fruits). It's old and unassuming with no sign to mark, so you might have to look for it; within walking distance to Ristorante Piperno.
GIOLITTI: Finding 'the best gelato' in Rome is an impossible feat, because it truly is based on taste. This is one of the oldest gelaterias in Rome that's maintained its old-fashioned charm, serving an array of classic and creative flavours. The gelato is fairly good, but it's really Giolitti's history that makes it. The original shop is located near Piazza Campo Marzio and Caffe Sant Eustachio.
TRAVELING TIPS
1. The historic centre is the most ideal and convenient area to stay, specifically between Piazza di Spagna and Piazza Venezia. This is the heart of the city, where most of the major sites are within walking distance and almost everything is accessible on foot. For first-time visits, especially, it's the easiest way to see Rome.
2. The most efficient way to tour the city is to map it out by neighbourhood and group things together - major sites, restaurants, et cetera. Rome is a pedestrian-friendly city and almost everything in the historic centre is within walking distance, but some neighbourhoods (like Monte Testaccio and Trastevere) are a little farther out.
3. Rome is so abundant with historic places and landmarks, it really does not take much to do a decent amount of site-seeing. Whether or not you plan a rigourous itinerary, just walking around the historic centre is enough to check off many of the major must-see's.
4. Summer in Rome can be extremely hot and busy. Expect big crowds and long lines, fully booked restaurants, and somewhat uncomfortable weather; many places also temporarily close during August. For a cooler and calmer visit, plan your trip either before or after peak months.
5. Booking restaurants in advance is highly advisable; even seemingly low-key spots can fill out pretty quickly. Also be aware that any traditional/authentic eatery will close after lunch and open again for dinner, and will be off either Sundays or Mondays. Make sure to check opening hours.