BERLIN, GERMANY
Berlin is a very interesting city to explore, especially in terms of modern culture. There are so many things to do, but after spending five days there, I would say a tourist's experience of Berlin is not nearly half of that of an insider's. The city has a generally worn-down look to it, so I would reccommend another destination if you're planning a summer holiday. There is just a certain mystery and rawness to the city that takes time to crack, so I would also advise looking for more Berliner activities than tourist-traps; try to dig deeper into the city, and you'll discover many fascinating things.
TO STAY
DAS STUE: A stylish and unique hotel overlooking a park, Das Stue has a very intimate and peaceful atmosphere nestled in green scenery. Like a sanctuary it provides a wonderful break away from the busy city. The staff is friendly and hospitable, and will get to know you in no time. The rooms are comfortable and enjoy scenic window views; the spa is rewarding; and the lobby area is great for hanging out. Their casual restaurant and Cinco 5 are also great dining options; while the bar screens a black-and-white movie in the background every night, with the option to sit outside in a cosy backyard/patio area and enjoy their special cocktails. Though the hotel is not located in a central area, it's only a 10-15 minute walk away from several main streets and attractions (Tiergarten especially); and it is certainly worth the distance.
FOOD & DINING
REINSTOFF: Nearby Menu (8 Courses)
Reinstoff is one of Berlin’s most unique dining places, and my experience there was unlike any other. The restaurant is modern and sleek with about 12 tables in the entire place. The service is extremely attentive and professional, as the waiters wear gloves and make sure your napkins are folded when you leave the table. As for the food, there are two set menus to choose from (only one per table) – the Nearby, which offers local ingredients; and the Faraway, which is more international. Both menus are insanely creative and diverse, with carefully assembled ingredients handpicked by the chefs. Each dish is served with a very specific wine pairing that best compliments the ingredients – red, white, and sweet ranging from South of France, Austria, and Italy. The menus bring together diverse foods such as halloumi cheese, crayfish and trout, Japanese tomato and grasshoppers, pigeon and pork liver, as well as fresh citrus fruits and dessert. Overall, our dining experience lasted four full hours (8:30 is the latest you can arrive), but this is not to discourage you! You will barely notice the time because of how many courses (and different parts of courses) there are; you are always entertained with a new dish, a glass of wine, or complementary tapas. It’s a very fun and interesting dining experience, and you are there for so long you basically become friends with other tables. Must try when in Berlin.
QUARRÉ ADLON: Shrimp Caesar Salad – German Meatballs – Crème Brulee – Grandmother’s Cheesecake
Quarré is one of the Adlon Kempinski’s lunch spots, with lovely outdoors seating on the street and delicious food – a great choice especially if you’re touring around the Brandenburg Gate. The Caesar Salad was good, but the Meatballs were especially terrific, served with fluffy mashed potato and chopped beets (an excellent combination). The desserts were both delicious. I highly recommend the cheesecake (make sure you ask for Grandmother’s) – light and spongy, and served slightly warm with a baked top.
GRILL ROYAL: Fennel Salad – Oysters – Pomerania Entrecote – Guanaja Chocolate Mousse – Crème Brulee
On a Tuesday night, the fairly big Grill Royal was fully crowded with a lively atmosphere. Luckily we were seated outside by a beautiful view of the river, where they also leave open bottles of wine for everyone to enjoy. The service can be a little slow due to the crowd, but the waiters are very polite and friendly. Although our starters were very poor choices, the Pomeranian Entrecote was excellent. Dry-aged four weeks on the bone, the steak was tender and full of flavor, and cooked to perfection; the Steak Sauce and Béarnaise are also great, with a side of sweet potato fries and grilled vegetables. As for dessert, both the Chocolate Mousse and Crème Brulee were light, smooth, and creamy. An excellent restaurant if you’re craving a hearty steak dinner and a beautiful view.
FISCHERS FRITZ: Prestige Set Menu (Langoustine – Frog Legs – Egg Cauliflower – Codfish – Potato Mousseline Dessert)
The overall atmosphere at Fischers Fritz is quite formal, with almost everyone dressed in shirts and ties. The restaurant itself is classically decorated with beautiful chandeliers, wooden panels, and a warm fireplace, but the food offers a slightly modern twist. Overall, the six courses were served in 2.5 hours, with some complementary refreshes in between; the waiters are very polite, and the presentation is creative. The Frog Legs and Codfish were particularly delicious. A good dining experience if you’re looking for delicate dishes and a formal night out. Do not leave without having the Potato Mousseline dessert!
MARKETHALLE NEUN: This is a food market heaven, which gets especially crowded every Thursday from 5-10 PM. You’ll find dozens of trucks and stalls cooking up various international cuisines. In one line up, you can go from American ribs, Norwegian fish, Brazilian tapiocas, and Asian noodles, to vegan salads, homemade cakes, and authentic German beer. An overwhelming and exciting diversity here to take you around the world in a few plates. Wear comfortable shoes, a cross-body bag, and make sure you have lots of change. And go with a big appetite! Check the website for opening hours and events.
PLACES TO VISIT & THINGS TO DO
GENDARMENMARKT: This is one of Berlin’s most famous squares, where you’ll find many shops and cafés, and several attractions side by side; this is where you’ll find the Konzerthaus and the Dome Français & Tower (with a panoramic view of Berlin). This area is generally nice to walk around, as you’ll find it leading you to other important city marks (such as Checkpoint Charlie); it is also a walking distance from VAU. Make sure you stop by Fassbender & Rausch for some of Germany’s finest chocolate.
CHECKPOINT CHARLIE: This attraction is not particularly a “must-see” point of interest (it is literally a shack with a bunch of Germans posing as American soldiers, demanding 2 euros for any pictures taken), but you might as well see it if you’re in the Gendarmenmarkt area. Across the street, you’ll find a Berlin Wall gallery/museum if you’re interested.
BERLIN WALL: After Checkpoint Charlie, ride down to see the actual Berlin Wall. You can walk the entire wall or just relax in the park, but you simply cannot miss out on this.
JEWISH MEMORIAL: This is a slightly grimmer memorial of the war; a sight of tall, gray stone blocks commemorating the lost lives of Jewish victims. If you walk down to the blocks, it’s like a big maze of stone. You can then walk on to see the Reichstag/Bundestag.
THE REICHSTAG/BUNDESTAG: This is the German Parliament Building, which you can simply marvel at its architecture from the outside or go for a tour inside (where you can see the huge, beautiful dome and enjoy a panoramic lunch view from its restaurant). However, make sure you book your visit in advance, as there are no on-door entrances or tickets. This is also pretty close to Quarré for lunch.
BERLIN CATHEDRAL: Berlin’s biggest and most celebrated cathedral, with a gorgeously intricate interior and dome; this one is definitely worth visiting. Make sure you take the stairs and enjoy the church from the balconies as well. Afterwards, you’ll find a long line up of cafés on the opposite side of the river.
MUSEUM ISLAND: A walking distance from the Berlin Cathedral, this is literally a square of museums that showcase art pieces and artifacts dating back to Ancient Egypt and Byzantine, all the way to Impressionist/Expressionist art. The Altes Nationalgalerie (Imp/Ex Art) was my favorite.
ALEXANDRPLATZ: This area is near the Berlin Cathedral and Museum Island, where you can just walk around and find several things to see/do. It’s pretty crowded and lively in the summer if you’re looking for street entertainment and food trucks. You’ll also find the Galeria Mall there for shopping and/or gourmet food.
KADEWA: This is Berlin's most popular department store; there are around 6 different floors, starting off first with makeup and cosmetics, men's fashion, women's fashion, shoes and bags gallery, home and kitchenware, and an entire floor for gourmet food and food stations. Excellent shopping destination, where you can even stop by for a quick snack.
BERLIN NIGHTLIFE: As a city, Berlin is quite casual in terms of style and atmosphere; there seems to be unwritten rules that are obvious only to Berliners, so make sure you know where you're going and what you're getting yourself into. There are so many cool and crazy concept-places that are unique to the city (such as abandoned amusement parks, circus-themed raves, and 14-hour parties in industrial buildings), so don't be afraid to experiment. If you're into the more hardcore night-life (loud/rave music, LGBT scene, industrial look, etc), then definitely read up on what ever club you have your eye on; many of them have unwritten dress codes, entrance/door rules, and general details that only insiders will know. Also for most places, it definitely helps if you have a German-speaking friend with you. You'll find that the best places to go have a very raw feel to them, where people go for pure experience.
TRAVELING TIPS:
1. Berliners are generally laidback, so there is no need to pack over-the-top fancy or dressy clothes (this does not include any formal bars or restaurants you might have booked; check for dresscodes).
2. Read up on insider tips about the nightlife there, especially the more exclusive and concept-based clubs that are usually very strict with their crowds. A few things I've learned:
Avoid taking pictures and keep your phone in your pocket;
Don't make a scene outside by talking too loud or crowding up the line;
It definitely helps if you speak German; if not, then keep your talking to a minimum because they don't like tourists;
Break yourselves up if you're a big group and make sure the ratio is proportionate (unless it's an LGBT club);
Don't dress up and go for a more all-black and industrial look;
Either show up too early or too late to a club to avoid hour long lines outside.
3. Berlin is a very big city, so it's not particularly tourist friendly; it's divided into different neighborhoods, which are difficult to navigate and generally far apart from one another. To be more efficient with time and avoid getting lost for hours, opt for transportation from place to place if they are not in the same area.
4. Make sure you know which areas you plan on visiting, because most of them can be very different in terms of atmosphere and style. You can go from designer-brand main streets to flea markets and street food trucks, so plan accordingly.
5. Avoid tourist traps and try to discover the city from a Berliner's perspective; there are so many interesting concepts and places that only people who live there would know about, so don't be shy about asking around for tips.
