BALI, INDONESIA
It's true. Bali is one of the most amazing and remarkable destinations in the world; and it's for everybody. A honeymoon paradise, a fun family holiday, or an adventure with friends. There's so much to see and do in Bali, and so many different ways to enjoy it. From soul-searching relaxation to thrilling adventure, and everything in between. Expect to see breathtaking scenery, explore a captivating culture, and meet some truly pure-hearted people. It's important to know that Bali is a huge island divided into different areas, all of which are unique in their own way. This here is a guide to Ubud (aka Bali's cultural heart). Ubud has the perfect balance of adventure and relaxation, traditional culture and modernisation, as well as beautiful surroundings in the rainforest and Ayung River. The best way to see Bali for the first time.
TO STAY
FOUR SEASONS AT SAYAN: Tranquility is a number one priority here at this hotel, designed to embrace its natural surroundings and provide a comfortable home in Bali's vast rainforest. Set by the Ayung River and encircled with greenery, Four Seasons at Sayan takes you into a world of serenity, relaxation, and repose. It's a luxurious resort, but one that is very much nestled in the soul of Ubud. Here, both culture and tradition is important; and play a huge role in the hotel - from the staff down to the design. Some say luxury-resorts isolate guests from the place, but Four Seasons Sayan actually does the opposite - by embracing nature, implementing culture, and offering Balinese-inspired activities. The hotel's facilities are excellent - the pool overlooks the Ayung River valley, the terrace restaurant floats over treetops, and the spa villas are paradisal. The bedrooms are designed as individual villas, with view of the river/rainforest; even the smallest room resembles a duplex suite. Also on offer are Balinese cooking classes, river rafting, yoga & meditation classes, as well as traditional chakra ceremonies. The hotel is just a 10 minute drive from Ubud centre, making it a convenient and accessible location to stay. Four Seasons at Sayan is an excellent choice if you want to be comfortable in Bali and still experience it wholly.
PLACES TO VISIT
FOR CULTURE:
UBUD ART MARKET: Located in the centre of town, the market is a great place to start exploring Ubud. A long, narrow street lined with artisanal products, handmade goods, crafts, and souvenirs. Here you'll find almost anything you might possibly want to take back home - from woven rattan bags, to sarongs, to Hindu-inspired art. Haggle over prices! They'll start with a high number which can easily go down to half if you persist. Walk through the market and branch out into the streets around it.
PURA TAMAN SARASWATI: A small Balinese Hindu temple in the centre of Ubud town, a short walk from the market. It's worth visiting if you're in the area to see the temple's architecture and lotus pond; as well as a dazzling shrine in the entrance.
UBUD ROYAL PALACE: Also in the centre of town across from the market, Ubud's Royal Palace is worth visiting for its historical significance and Hindu architecture. Its location on Jalan Raya Ubud makes it a popular and accessible site.
PURA GUNUNG KAWI: An 11th century Hindu temple and funerary complex with beautiful ponds and shrines. Located north of Ubud's town centre, around a 30 minute drive from the market. Visit in the afternoon for a calm and peaceful experience. Sarongs are provided at the entrance.
PURA TIRTA EMPUL: A Hindu water temple built around a bubbling spring, known for a legendary tale about good versus evil. Tirta Empul (meaning Holy Water) is used for prayer and purification. There are two sacred pools where bathers cleanse themselves under 30 waterspouts to complete the process. This is a wonderful way to experience Balinese culture or witness it firsthand.
GOA GAJAH: Another Hindu temple known for historical significance, Goa Gajah (known as the Elephant Cave) is a popular tourist site. It's known mostly for the cave and not much else; there are far more elaborate temples to visit. It's a 15 minute drive from Ubud town, but I wouldn't necessarily go out of my way for it.
LEMPUYANG TEMPLE: One of Bali's most significant and highly-regarded sites, widely recognised by its "gate to heaven". This is one of the places you can't miss in Bali. Situated 600m above sea level on Mount Lempuyang Luhur, this temple complex has some really remarkable viewpoints and impressive architecture. There are actually 7 temples to visit on site, so prepare for a full day of walking and climbing steps if you want to see it all. Sarongs are provided outside. The big gates are easy to get to at the first temple. Lempuyang is quite far outside Ubud (around a 1-2 hour drive) but totally worth it. Go early in the morning to avoid crowds, or later in the afternoon for good lighting.
TIRTA GANGGA: A royal water garden just 20 minutes away from Lempuyang Temple, Tirta Gangga is a wonderful site to visit in the area. Known for its water ponds filled with beautiful orange fish and stepping stones to walk on; surrounded by ornate statues, gardens, and Hindu architecture. Definitely one of Bali's most memorable sites and a fun experience to see the fish swim beneath your feet. No sarongs required.
*Tip: For an amazing photo - step onto a stone, feed the fish, and watch them gather all around you!
FOR SCENERY & EXPERIENCE:
TEGALLALANG RICE TERRACE: Rice fields play a huge role in Indonesian life, so this is a must-see. Here at Tegallalang you'll have wonderful views of rice paddies surrounded by a tropical forest. Walk through and around the fields, and admire the greenery. There are several stalls and cafés outside, and a swing to go on. Wear comfortable shoes and go in the afternoon; it's a 20 minute drive from Ubud centre.
BALI PULINA: A famous coffee plantation near Tegallalang, located up on a mountain with breathtaking views of the rainforest. Go for a chance to see how their famous Luwak coffee is made and roasted. Grab a table on the edge and enjoy a warm drink as you float above treetops. The tasting tray offers a selection of different coffees and teas to try (all handmade and roasted on site). Wonderful location for an afternoon break, and a memorable experience. There's also a gift shop there to purchase their products.
BALI SWING: There are several locations in/near Ubud for that thrilling experience of swinging over treetops. Bali Swing is the biggest establishment, with around 15 swings to offer. It's usually crowded all day long, but the lines move pretty fast. Go in the afternoon for the best lighting.
SACRED MONKEY FOREST: A popular activity in Ubud, where you'll get to walk among monkeys and watch them in their "natural habitat". Monkeys here walk wild and free, and can get pretty close to visitors (especially if provoked); but it's pretty safe and the monkeys are harmless (if you stay out of their way). A fun pastime in the centre of Ubud, just a short walk away from the market. There are also several good restaurants/cafés on that street to stop off for lunch.
CAMPUHAN RIDGE WALK: Perfect for a stroll or a hike through beautiful fields. Campuhan's mellow trails and sweeping hilltops makes this a really peaceful experience. Go later in the afternoon to avoid the sun and wear something comfortable.
THINGS TO DO
YOGA & MEDITATION: An unmissable experience in Bali. Practicing yoga/meditation here is magical - surrounded by nature, Hindu values, and experts to guide you through it. You can do this at your hotel or at several locations around Ubud. Push yourself and go for it! Yoga Barn is a very popular studio for wellness; they offer different classes, workshops, and treatments. It's frequented by tourists, so expect to be surrounded by other yogis/health enthusiasts rather than locals.
RIVER RAFTING: This is a really fun activity to put on your schedule, suitable for all ages. Ride through the Ayung River and admire the beautiful scenery around you. Stop off for lemon beer or coconut water along the way, and swim through the stream. The river is mostly flat and shallow, so it's a pretty smooth ride (save a few rocks here and there). Most river-side hotels in Ubud organise a rafting company to start off at an allocated point and drop you back at the hotel.
BALINESE COOKING CLASS: The Balinese cuisine is rooted in culture and tradition, comprised mostly of what the land has to offer. Cooking classes here bring you closer to understanding Balinese life, focusing not only food but also on values. Learn the ways of the island kitchen and their unique blend of flavours. There are several locations around Ubud where you can cook with Balinese families in traditional homes; a humbling and eye-opening experience.
FOOD & DINING
*When you're roaming around the centre of Ubud town, look for 3 streets (jalans) in particular: Monkey Forest, Goutama, and Hanoman. These are all parallel to one another and branch out from the main street of Jalan Raya Ubud. This is the trendiest and liveliest area in town, where most of the good restaurants and cafés are.
MINDFUL CAFÉS:
MUDRA: Healthy/Organic Food (Smoothie Bowls, Eggs & Toast, Salads)
A cosy and laidback café in central Ubud, where everything is mindful of the soul & body. It's a lovely, open space that fits only 15 people at a time and asks you to please remove shoes before entering. Open from breakfast to dinner, Mudra serves delicious and wholesome food made fresh everyday - from smoothie bowls, eggs, and avocado toasts, to soup, salads, and sandwich wraps. The smoothie bowls are really great here, and will fill you up for hours! Tucked away on Jalan Goutama, this is a great place to unwind from the bustle of the town.
YELLOW FLOWER CAFÉ: Healthy/Homemade Food (Smoothie Bowls, Balinese Lunch Plates)
A very small and modest café overlooking central Ubud, tucked away on Jalan Raya Campuhan (climb up the Penestanan steps and follow the sign). The Hindu/Indian-inspired decor is bright and vibrant, with colourful cushions and Palmeria flowers on every table. The café is run by a few Balinese women who cook for you in a small, home-like kitchen. They serve a variety of food, all of which is healthy, organic, and vegan-friendly. Come here for smoothie bowls and breakfast options like avocado toast and eggs; or traditional lunch plates like curried chicken, fritters, salads, etc. The smoothie bowls here taste more homemade and fresh (definitely lighter than Mudra's). Great location to get away from town and unwind.
KISMET: All-Vegan Food
Vegan never tasted so good! Kismet throws away the idea that vegan food equals boring plates of vegetables, and throws in the hearty stuff. A young, trendy restaurant in central Ubud with a lounge space downstairs and a moody bar/dining space upstairs. The food is so tasty and creative you won't believe it's 100% vegan. They have a long, diverse menu offering anything from soups and large salads, to skewers, sandwiches, burgers, pasta, and sides. The tempeh sandwiches and burgers are so flavoursome and filling, we couldn't believe it's not meat. This place will definitely change your opinion on vegan cooking. Come here hungry and expect to leave satisfied!
TRENDY DINING:
The sister restaurant to the famous fine-dining Locavore, this small deli offers much more casual food in a casual space. Open for breakfast and lunch only - a perfect stop for a quick bite in town (just off of Jalan Goutama). The menu is small but with fun and creative options like Duck Egg & Waffles, Bahn Mí, Reuben sandwich, Prawn Sausage Roll, and Falafel Pocket. The Prawn Sausage is a house special - served on buttery brioche, topped with pickled fennel, herbed mayo, and cocktail sauce; and the sausage itself is so tasty without being fishy. The fries are golden crisp, but the Pommes Dauphin are unmissable (so order both on the side). One of the best meals in Ubud.
*Also recommended from the Locavore Family: Locavore for experimental dining, Nightrooster for late-night tapas and drinks.
SAYAN HOUSE: Sunset Dinner
Wonderful location for an atmospheric dinner and a sunset view. This is one of the best, top-quality restaurants in Ubud. Sayan House is nestled in a lush garden overlooking the forest, with a sit-down dining area and a casual high-table bar space perched just on the edge. The restaurant has a nice, summery feel to it - like dining outside in your backyard. The cuisine is a fun fusion of Japanese and Latin food; so order a variety to share. The ceviche, sushi, and tacos are especially good; the Teriyaki de Pollo and Tuna Korokke for mains are excellent; and the Yucca and Elote are great for sides. For dessert, order their famous Matcha Tiramisu. Book a table in advance and make sure it's just before sunset! The atmosphere is beautiful and the food is really good. One of the most memorable meals in Bali.
HUJAN LOCALE: Modern Balinese
A creative and modern take on Balinese cuisine is what you can expect here at Hujan Locale, one of Ubud's trendiest restaurants just off of Jalan Raya Ubud. The atmosphere is casual but elegant, with simple wood interiors and dim lighting. The menu offers a diverse range of regional dishes from all around the island, with Hujan's unique twist and artful presentation. From spiced sate and caramelised pork belly, to coconut curried chicken, mango sambal duck, and tea smoked fish. Order a few starters to share - the raw tuna, cod croquettes, crispy squid, and beef sate were all good. For mains, the coconut simmered chicken and 48hr braised short rib beef were excellent - both very tender and juicy, with an array of flavours. Order some crispy roti on the side and use it for sauce/broth. For dessert, go for the white chocolate mousse with sugared roti. Book a table in advance and request it upstairs.
IBU SUSU: Modern Pan-Asian, Quick Bites
Great spot for lunch near the Sacred Monkey Forest. The menu offers a range of sharing plates and fun cocktails, inspired by temporary Pan-Asian cuisine: small bites like spring rolls and dumplings, salads and sashimi, bao buns and sate, as well as larger plates. The Steamed Buns (which come in the option of fried chicken, pork, or tofu) are really excellent here. The atmosphere is light and casual, like a trendy Melbourne bar-shack. Stop by for a break if you're in the area - open from noon to late.
COPPER KITCHEN: Modern Rooftop Dining
A rooftop bar & restaurant located in the hip Bisma Eight hotel (central Ubud). Open all day from breakfast to dinner, Copper Kitchen serves a modern fusion of regional and international food. For dinner, the menu offers a balance of Indonesian dishes like lumpia, fish curry and spiced chicken; as well as international options like Australian ribeye steak, grilled salmon, and eggplant parmigiana. Compared to the beautiful design and atmosphere here, though, the food is disappointing (with more focus on presentation than on taste, and unsatisfying portions). Come mainly for the rooftop setting and drinks; ask for the all-day dining menu and order a few bites to share. Breakfast here would also be a better option.
TRADITIONAL FOOD:
BEBEK TEPI SAWAH: Traditional Balinese
Crispy duck is one of Bali's most famous foods and something you should definitely eat at least once on the island. At this traditional wood and thatch-style restaurant, nestled in the corner of a rice field, is an authentic experience of Balinese dining. Bebek Tepi Sawah is not too fancy or too casual, but more atmospheric than its counterpart Bebek Bengil (also famous for crispy duck). The restaurant is located near Goa Gajah, around a 15 minute drive from central Ubud; come here for lunch if you're visiting the Elephant Cave or book later for dinner. The menu offers a variety of regional plates, but definitely go for the crispy duck (served with rice, green beans, and spicy sambal). The meat is juicy and tender, and the skin is golden crisp on the outside. A good place to tick crispy duck off your list.
LUMBUNG: Upscale Traditional Balinese
Located in the luxe resort of Desa Visesa, Lumbung restaurant offers an upscale experience of Balinese cuisine in an elegant space. There's not much of an atmosphere, but the food and service are top quality. The menu is dedicated to traditional dishes like satay and fried rice, regional vegetables, and a variety of meats. The portions are quite small (even for the plates to share) so order several dishes. The beef croquettes, sweet corn fritters, spring rolls, and coconut chicken satay are good for starters. For mains, the roasted wagyu tenderloin was the most memorable; the meat is juicy and tender, and very well-spiced. Order rice and Jengkol beans on the side. Dessert here was also excellent; get the sweet potato dumplings, lapis legit with coconut ice-cream, and rice pudding with palm syrup. A nice, elegant take on Balinese food.
TRAVELING TIPS
1. Bali's tropical weather means it will rain all year round, even during the dry season. The best and driest time to visit is between May and September. Expect some rain, but nothing that would ruin your holiday.
2. Pack light, loose, and comfortable clothes. Bali's humidity can be unbearable if you're not dressed for it. Pack comfortable shoes for walking and something with a good grip. Places here are casual and modest, and don't require dressing up.
3. Become familiar with their money and the general price of things; their large bills can be very confusing. Bargain at the market and with taxi drivers.
4. Agree on a fixed price for the journey before getting into a taxi. It's better to bargain with the driver beforehand. You can also ask for their number and arrange other journeys with them.
5. Be mindful of Balinese culture; the island's people are kind and respectful, and greatly devoted to their traditions. The strictest places are Hindu temples, but other than that Bali is very accommodating to tourists.
6. Do not drink any water that is not filtered or bottled. Avoid ice in your drinks if you're not at a proper restaurant.
7. Take a look at Bali's map and plan your activities in advance. It's a huge island, and some places can be up to 2 hours away by car. Plan appropriately so you're not wasting hours and hours driving from one place to another.
8. Bali has two different sides: the centre and the coast. If possible, spend half your vacation in Ubud and the other half somewhere by the beach. Best of both worlds.